M-whY

I ducked into an internet cafe that was advertising access for $3 FJ an hour. Much better. Back at the hostel, $3 FJ bought you 15 minutes of time. I spent an hour and a half uploading pics on a 56k connection, and another half hour checking email and surfing the web.

After getting my fill of technology, I went back out into the hot Fijian sun and started walking. I walked up and down Main St, not finding much. A random guy on the street approached me, being all friendly, and invited me into his shop. Hah. Not this time. I pretended I didn't understand English and just kept going.

It was well past lunch time and I hadn't eaten anything. I turned down one of the side streets hoping to find something cheap to eat. Not finding anything appetizing, I went down an even smaller street. Eventually, I came across an outdoor market where local Fijians were selling their produce.

Most people arriving in Fiji usually sign up for one of week-long, everything-arranged-for-you, tours. These tours weren't cheap. A bus around the main island or a cruise ship to the smaller islands often cost several hundred dollars. Souvenir shops sold small trinkets and Fijian handcrafts for outrageously inflated prices. Travel agencies all offered tours of 'authentic' Fiji villages. All this made me wonder if "Bula!" was some cleverly contrived marketing scheme to give visitors the impression they were experiencing the real Fiji.

At the outdoor market, I got a small glimpse under tourism's mask. I didn't see one foreigner at the stalls. Prices were dirt cheap. I bought a bunch of bananas at $1 FJ a bunch. I located a vendor selling papayas.

"How much?" I asked, pointing at a papaya.

"$1." She indicated a stack of four.

Four papayas for $1 FJ? Not a bad deal! I picked out a stack and she bagged them for me.

"Vinaka!"

I wandered back onto Main St and sat down on a bench to eat my bananas. At 3:00pm, school children started pouring out into the streets. The young boys in blue uniforms, girls in pink dresses. Half an hour later, older students, dressed in white, got out of class and started walking home as well. It was quite a sight to see.

Having patronized the taxi drivers enough, I decided to return to my hotel by foot. If the Fijian kids could do it, I could too. On my two mile walk back, I saw some kids swimming in a muddy river with some cows. A fisherman was selling his impressive catch by the side of the road. A truck drove by and honked. I waved at the men sitting in the bed. They waved back. "Bula!" they shouted.

An hour later I was back at the hostel. I borrowed a knife and spoon from the kitchen and washed down my delicious papayas with a Fiji Bitter next to the pool.

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!