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March 03, 2005

A long walk

IMGP0386ngauruhoe.JPG

(Day 15) In the late ninteeth century, the native Maori were in danger of losing their lands to the pakeha (white New Zealanders). They were forced to give up or sell their lands at ridiculously cheap prices. Fearing the Maori would lose one of their most sacred lands, Tuwharetoa chief Te Heu Heu Tukino IV did the only thing he could. He donated the land to the country, on the condition that the land could not be settled or developed. His donation turned into what is known today as Tongariro National Park.

Tongariro National Park contains some great hikes, or tramps, as New Zealanders like to call them. The Tongariro Crossing itself is often regarded as the best single day tramp in the country. Any visit to New Zealand wouldn't be complete without attempting this 16 km walk in which several scenes from the Lord of the Rings were shot.

The sun hadn't even risen yet when we got up. Our shuttle was coming at 6:00am to pick us up and drive us to the Tongariro Crossing. The drive to the beginning of the tramp took exactly one hour. We arrived just as the sun was starting to show over the mountain.

As planned, we had beaten the crowds and were among the first to start. It was quite cold, despite the fact I was wearing practically every piece of clothing I own. Three t-shirts, one long sleeved shirt, a light jacket, and shorts underneath my jeans. I kept telling myself, it'll be warmer when we reach sunlight.

It turned out, I didn't even need the sun to begin shedding layers. About an hour into the walk, we reached a steep rocky climb. Up and up we went, climbing a trail marked only by poles stuck in the rock. I kept hoping to reach the top, but around each corner, more and more rocks appeared. It was a tiring, and I stopped frequently to take breaks. "Go on ahead," I told Don. "I'll meet you at the end."

Trampers who had started later than me started catching up. I didn't mind. Slow and steady wins the race, or in this case, finishes the race. A couple German guys with climbing poles came up the trail quickly.

"You make it look so easy," I remarked to them.

They smiled. "It only looks that way."


I reached the top of this rocky section and sat at the Mangatepopo Saddle, between Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. The view of Mt Ngauruhoe was amazing. I was so inspired, I built my own miniature model.

Past the saddle, I walked across the South Crater. The path here was nice and flat, and I made pretty good time. At the end of the crater was another short climb. I took my time doing this part too, stopping often to take pictures. I passed the Red Crater, which I thought could've been named something else due to a particular feature, but I guess that wouldn't have been appropriate.

From the Red Crater, it was a ten minute walk to the peak of the trail. The view of the Blue Lake was awesome, but the best was yet to come. Just past the peak, I reached the real gem of the tramp. The Emerald Lakes. I went picture crazy, taking tons of photos, hoping a couple of them would turn out well. Snap! Snap! Snap! My camera was getting a great workout.

Down a slippery slope to the shores of the Emerald Lakes. Still well before noon, but this looked like the perfect place to stop for a sandwich.

After sitting around for half an hour admiring the view, it was time to press on. I passed the two Germans who had paused to take pictures.

"You make it look so easy," they joked.

"It only looks that way." My feet were dead tired.


The path down first went through a barren, rocky, landscape before morphing into bushlands. I was doing okay. I had caught my second wind and my lungs didn't feel like dying anymore, but the soles of my feet were screaming for help. However, I had been drinking tons of water along the way, and I really wanted to get to the bathrooms further down.

Having relieved my bladder, I decided to attend to my feet. No blisters or anything, but keep your feet happy, and the rest of the body will feel much better. I stopped to soak my feet in the warm waters from a natural hot springs above.

Past the bushlands, the trail went through a lush green forest. Man, this walk has everything! I thought to myself. I walked along the ice cold streams, passing a couple waterfalls. I passed a group checking their trail map.

"How much farther?" I asked.

"Not sure, but I think we're almost there."

Another hour, and I saw the end. It had only take me seven hours to finish. I collapsed and waited for my shuttle back.

16 kilometers and 1900 meters at it's highest point.

Mt Everest, you're next!


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at March 3, 2005 08:38 PM

Comments

Wow, sweet pics! The Emerald Lakes look awesome =)

Posted by: OREOSpeedwagon at March 3, 2005 10:46 PM

All I can say is, WOW! I've been on a lot of hikes in a lot of places, but it's pretty unusual to see that many different terrains/landscapes/waters (not to mention the "particular feature") in a single day's hike anywhere in the world. Consider yourself very lucky.

Posted by: Jon at March 4, 2005 04:23 PM

what a hike! i remember hiking in middle and high school, but on this trail, you see so many different landscapes. this hike is awesome, if i go to new zealand, i'm definitely coming here.


and to eat sheeps.

Posted by: jack at March 4, 2005 11:51 PM

I will slowly but surely catch up to you, dammit! It's been 53 days already?! Damn, I can't believe how far behind I am -- a month! Ack! But hey, it's been hectic here. Nice pictures though. You cracked me up with the whole RED CRATER remark and how it should be named according to its particular feature. HAHAHAHAH -=oP 7 hours?! I'm bad with my conversion. How many miles was that again? I don't know about all that. I think I would've passed out from my lungs collapsing. lol -GEM

Posted by: GEM at April 11, 2005 05:28 AM