M-whY

We were split into two groups as we got off the shuttle. "Only 250 years ago, this car park was under 30m of ice," explained Rodger, my group's guide. "A few thousand years ago, it stretched all the way to the ocean, 11 km away."

We began approaching the foot of the glacier, walking along an icy cold river with chunks of ice floating in it. Rodger was very knowledgeable, having guided Fox Glacier walks for over 20 years.

"It's possible to find gold here at the glaciers," he told us. "But since the land is under the control fo the Department of Conservation, it's illegal to remove anything from it. If you do happen to spot a nugget of gold though, don't scream and shout. Just let me know quietly, and I'll put it in my pocket." For the next couple minutes, everyone's eyes were glued to the ground.

From behind us, the other guide called out. "Rodger! Have you heard what happened?"

The two guides stepped off to the side and began discussing something. This doesn't look good, I thought to myself.

A few moments later, the guides gathered us around them. "Apparently there was a rock slide last night. Usually we like to let rock slides sit for 24 hours before we proceed, just to make sure everything is safe." Then he dropped the bombshell. "We won't be able to take you up on the ice today."

WHAT?! The glaciers were number one on my list of things to do in New Zealand. To say I was disappointed would be a vast understatement.

Our only options, if we wanted to walk on the glacier, would be to take a helicopter up, or try again the next day. For cost reasons, I didn't even consider the former.

This completely screwed up our plans. Already on a tight schedule, spending an extra night at the glaciers would mean cutting out future activities in Queenstown and Milford Sound.

In the end, Don forked over the money for the helicopter, and I opted to try again the next day. He would take the car to Queenstown as scheduled, and I'd find a bus and catch up to him a day later.

There was no way I'd miss the glaciers.

Unexpectedly having nothing to do the whole day, I looked in my guidebook for attractions nearby. Only 12 km out of town was Gillepsie beach. A short walk from Gillepsie Beach was the Gillepsie Beach seal colony. Sounded like a plan.

I took the car and started heading west. A short distance out of town, a herd of cows were standing on the road, blocking the way. I slowed to a stop. They just stood there, staring at me with their big dumb eyes. Cows must be the dumbest creatures on the planet. Watching them as the stared and mooed convinced me that the only reason for their existence is to provide beef.

It wasn't until I revved my engine that they finally got out of the way. I arrived at Gillepsie Beach, which was different from every other beach I had seen in New Zealand. From past experiences, I had expected clear blue waters and warm yellow sand. Not the rough dark waters and ugly gray sand with dead wood all over. I walked an hour down the beach until I reached the lagoon. A sign indicated the bridge was uncrossable. I guess I wouldn't be seeing any seals today either. It just wasn't my day.

Oh well, at least I tried. Maybe tomorrow...

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