M-whY

I checked out when I woke up, and had a pleasant surprise on my bill. My room bill was 20% lower than what I had been quoted. Even though I only ran into Juju a handful of times, and never for more than a couple minutes, I'm sure she had something to do with it. I hadn't asked for any discount. Only a friend of a friend, my connection to her was tenuous. It was too bad I wouldn't see her again to thank her.

I lounged on a hammock until noon, when a boat arrived to take me back. We circled around the rest of the Perhentians, picking up more passengers from various beaches. Each beach was just as nice as the one I enjoyed, and most, if not all, were free of huge resorts that catered to packaged tourists.

The ride back was fairly rough. I've learned to sit at the back of the boat, where the motion isn't as severe, and managed not to get seasick. I did get thoroughly soaked though. I huddled over my bag, shielding it from the ocean spray. I pack some heavy electronics, and getting them wet was the last thing I wanted.

Back on the mainland, I shared a taxi to Kota Bharu with two British girls. Staunchly Islamic, with even a sign that reads "Kota Bharu the Islamic City," Liz and Jennie attracted a lot of attention in their spaghetti strap tops, though I'm not sure they noticed it.

I overheard them arranging to be picked up by the same taxi driver, to be taken to the border tomorrow.

"Are you crossing the Thai border tomorrow?" I asked them.

"Yeah."

"Do you mind if I share the taxi with you?"

"Not at all. We're leaving tomorrow morning, is that alright?"

"Sure, no problem."

We would be staying at different guesthouses and informed the taxi driver to pick all three of us up tomorrow. The place they stayed at looked nice and clean. Mine looked not so clean. But it was cheap, and I've always told myself, it's just a place to sleep.

On the Perhentian Islands, I slept so much that my head hurt. But at least I was well rested, and had plenty of energy to look around. Like I mentioned, the city had a very strong Muslim flavor. Nearly all women wore headscarves, and at certain times, prayers were blasted through loudspeakers atop mosques. But I felt plenty safe.

While getting some food at a roadside cafe, the proprietor began speaking to me in Malay. When it was apparent I wasn't comprehending, he switched to english.

"Oh, sorry, you don't speak Malay?"

"No..." It's not that I feel too superior to learn the local tongue, it's just that when it comes to foreign languages, I suck.

"Oh, I thought you did. Where are you from? Japan? Korea?"

"America." I have no problems admitting my nationality, even in a Muslim city.

"Ah, America. Great place, powerful country," he smiled.

The only sight really worth mentioning in Kota Bharu is the large octagonal building housing the central market. Here, everything from fresh produce to handicrafts could be bought. Whether you'd want to is a different story. From my first world eyes, sanitation seemed like it'd be a huge concern. Flies buzzed around the raw seafood sitting out in the open. Wearing only flip flops, my feet got wet in what I hope was only dirty water. I came with the intention of maybe buying some fruit, but after walking around, I totally lost my appetite.

Some time in an internet cafe rekindled my hunger. I had a craving for a Big Mac, so I stopped at McDonald's. Several bikes with delivery boxes were parked outside. A McDonald's that delivers. Now there's an interesting idea!

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!