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May 29, 2005

Wat Tham Sua

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(Day 102) Two weeks after I had decided to do my world tour, the infamous tsunami of late 2004 ravaged Thai coastline. Though every news station covered the event, I don't think we knew how catastrophic the disaster was until days later. I remember being asked if it changed my plans any. At the time, I wondered if I'd have to revise my itinerary. But the thought of cancelling the trip was never seriously considered. My resignation letter was turned in, making me too far committed to turn back. How pathetic would it have been to ask for my job back just a week after quitting?

I paid careful attention to the situation, and learned that the area had gotten back on its feet quickly. All that was missing were the tourists. And so here I am...

I got up too late to go on any of the tours, but early enough that I would be bored if I didn't find something to do. There's not much in terms of activities within Krabi itself. The town is primarily a launchpad for day trips to various islands, including the world class Ko Phi Phi. Liz and Jennie were planning on going over to Railay Beach, and I was about to join them until I found out my tour the next day included a quick stop there. Seeing the same beach twice wouldn't make for good writing material. Instead, I tried to find somewhere else to go.

Guan, a pretty Thai girl who ran a tour booking agency right next door to my guesthouse, was extremely helpful. She was obviously in the business of selling me tours, but her ever-present smile made me glad to give her my business. Better than any tourist information center I've come across, she showed me on a map several sights I could visit to pass the day.

I decided to visit Wat Thom Sua, or Tiger Cave Temple. Public transportation could've gotten me there, but driving a motorbike is so much more fun. I rented a ride from my guesthouse and followed Guan's directions to the temple entrance. Admission was free, but I donated a few baht towards a reconstruction project that was going on.

The temple's main draw is an arduous, 1237 step, ascent to the top of a limestone pillar. A cool breeze and great views were the reward to anyone who made it to the summit. I was fine for the first 500 steps or so, but the climb wasn't easy. I was soon requiring breaks every 100 steps.

"I'll see you at the top," I said as I overtook a couple people taking a rest stop.

"I'll see you at the top," they repeated moments later when it was my turn to catch my breath.

monkey-style, using all four limbs. I took step 1237 with a great sense of achievement. But my triumph was peanuts compared to what the monks had done up here. A huge stupa and colorful buddha overlooked the landscape.

"I'm gonna run down to the shop, do you want a drink or anything?" joked a guy I had played leapfrog with on the way up.

I didn't get their names, but a brief chat with the guy and girl revealed a remarkable story. The two of them were old friends that had randomly run into each other on one of Thailand's beaches. Totally unplanned, it was quite a coincidence. I'm still waiting for my random encounter with a familiar face!

If the monks built an escalator down and charged five baht for it's use, I'm sure they'd have enough funds for their reconstruction project in no time. Going down proved much more difficult than going up. By the time I reached step number one, my knees were literally shaking. I sat down for a while to recuperate, and played with with a baby monkey curious enough to shake my hand when I extended it. When my knees no longer felt like jello, I hopped back on my motorbike and went for a cruise.

With a full tank of gas and plenty of time, I just picked a direction and kept going. Once, while I stopped to take pictures, a five year old Thai girl shouted "Hello!" from across the street. I waved back. The friendliness of the people here is amazing.

That evening, I ran into Liz and Jennie again at the guesthouse.

"We're going to the night market, do you want to go?"

"Sure."

The night market was a disappointment though.

"I'm afraid you're gonna be terribly bored," they said as they shopped around the few stands for some clothes. All the merchandise there was geared towards women. Nothing for me to even pretend to be interested in.

Afterwards, the three of us went to an 'Italian' restaurant for dinner. I couldn't decide whether to get pizza or pasta. I had a craving for both. I eventually went with the pizza. We shared travel experiences, particularly of New Zealand, while we ate. Sometime during the night, I let them in on my blog, which I usually keep secret from travellers.

"So... do you write about people you meet on your trip?" asked Jennie.

Of course I do!

(Liz, Jennie, if you actually get to this site, I'm sorry to admit I lost your email addresses already :( If you send them to me again, I'll email you our dinner picture, or you can just take the one linked above.)


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at May 29, 2005 10:32 PM

Comments

at the beginning of my trip i was doing something new like every day... maybe it's the weather or maybe i'm just getting tired, but now i find i have to pause every 3-4 days to rest or i'll run out of gas!

as usual guys, keep it clean! :)

matt, aves: i've heard different things about ko phi phi, so i'm not really sure what to expect until i get there... i do hope it's nice though!

tree: i suck at foreign languages. i'm trying to pick up a few phrases, but i keep forgetting them! and maybe because i'm really tan now, the locals here keep mistaking me for thai. like when i went to the night market last night (not the one pictured in this post, a different one) to get some food, they all tried speaking thai to me. one old lady kept talking to me (laughing and smiling all the while) and i had no idea what she was saying!

Posted by: markyiin at May 29, 2005 10:55 PM

WOW Liz and Jennie are hot!
I always look forward to checking your site everday for updates. Keep'em coming!

Posted by: Robert at May 30, 2005 04:03 AM

I don't even know how I would've been once I reached the top. Stairs?! I mean, can I get an escalator like you mentioned?! lol And going down was worse?! You'd think it'd be easier being that you're not straining against the force of gravity but I suppose the pressure you put on yourself with each step because of the way gravity is working would make your knees shaky. Hmm. Anyway, I was wondering -- of the backpackers you've met and ran into, what was the age range, especially the ladies. Just curious I guess. Maybe one day, I'll get the balls to do something like that. -=oD -GEM

Posted by: GEM at May 31, 2005 03:14 AM