M-whY

Deer's family lived in Phaya Mengrai, a small town about 60kms away from Chiang Rai. It took about 45 minutes to get there. The scenery was amazing. I had met Deer on a sightseeing trip in Ao Phang Nga, which I thought was pretty spectacular, but this was just as good. We bought some lotus flowers from a roadside stall, to snack on later. People say you don't experience the real Thailand until you leave Bangkok. I used to think this was a conceited mindset. The people in Bangkok are just as Thai as anywhere else in the country. This though, was a refreshing change from the fast and hectic pace of the big city. I really liked it.

I followed Deer to the local market to buy some fresh ingredients for dinner. She rarely brought guests home, and so my arrival called for a party. It would be quite a gathering. With all her relatives and the contractors that were hired to do some work on her house, there would be at least 15 people in attendance.

Watching the respect she got, and noting that everyone seemed to know her, I knew there was more to the story than she had told me yesterday. Whatever she bought, she was given extra. People stopped to have lengthy conversations with her. "They want me to run for mayor," she said when I asked her to translate.

Despite all this, her family lived in a simple home in the countryside. Living with her were her mom, stepdad, nephews, nieces, and their spouses. Her parents received the respect demanded by age, but it was Deer that supported the household. Her own room was equipped with all the electronics typically found in american sleeping quarters. When the car was parked, relatives unloaded our things without even being asked. It was like they knew the routine.

"Is it okay to stay here?" asked Deer.

I replied in the affirmative. What the place lacked in modern sophistication, it made up for with character.

"Sa-wat-di-kop," I said (one of maybe half a dozen Thai phrases I've learned) with a wai, as her parents came out to greet me. They were all smiles as I was welcomed into their home. I have to admit, it was a bit awkward at first. No one spoke any english, and I didn't know enough Thai to hold a conversation, so I just nodded and smiled a lot. (This was one time when I really wished I wasn't so miserable at learning foreign languages.) After taking care of some business, Deer came to my rescue. We took a walk on her land first, before placing large straw mat on the lawn and laying out to enjoy the nice breeze. I felt a bit guilty, the way her nephews kept bringing us drinks and snacks. I don't like to draw attention when I travel; I prefer to be invisible if possible. But all I could do was smile and nod while they heaped the renowned Thai hospitality on me.

When it was time for dinner, the whole family and the three contractors joined Deer and I on the straw mat. Two trays, each with a bowl of curry, a bowl of fish, and a dish of mushrooms were placed on opposite sides so everyone was within an arms length of the food. Sticky rice (real sticky rice, unlike anything I've had before) was brought out and served from a large cloth bag. Ladles were provided to spoon the fish soup, but everything else was eaten with bare hands. Rice was rolled into small balls and dipped into the fragrant curry. Everyone was in great spirits. Conversation was lively, and some of it, I'm sure, was centered around me. The few bits that Deer translated for me would've made me redden, if I wasn't already a bit flushed from the beer. There was an anxious moment when the large family dog, who supposedly isn't very keen on strangers, bounded up to me. But from my experiences with my own dog, I knew how to handle them. I soon had the animal sitting calmly by my side, causing Deer's mom to say something in approval.

The sun set over the mountain, and the older people retired to let the younger mingle. We ate fresh lotus seeds that we had bought earlier. Music was played over some speakers on the porch. Bottles of whiskey were brought out, and I ingested liquor for the first time in a long time. Deer got up and started to dance, and when I remained seated, one of her nephews cracked something in Thai.

"He says you didn't drink enough, or you'd be dancing too!" laughed Deer.

"Tell him I'm too drunk to stand up," I grinned.

I spent the night in the guest room. Too many questions would've been asked if I stayed in Deer's. No air conditioning, a simple mattress in the room, kept cool by a fan, yet I felt very comfortable, as if I was at home. I closed my eyes and fell asleep instantly, quietly passing from one dreamworld to the other...

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!