« Some things never change | Main | Cruising down the river »

June 25, 2005

My first river border

(Day 126) Some of Deer's coworkers were coming to town for a meeting, and were expecting to be able to stay at her home, as they normally do. Though I was no longer a secret to her friends and family, she wasn't quite ready to introduce me to her teammates. As a pretty bachelorette, there was a great interest in her personal life, and she didn't want rumors to start swirling around the office.

"I want you to stay here, but I'm worried my coworkers will be able to read my feelings," she had confessed.

I solved her dilemma by offering to stay downtown for a few nights until they left. She agreed to this suggestion. Her family probably wasn't aware of what was going on, and when they saw me loading my bags into the back of her SUV, thought I was again leaving for good. The language barrier prevented me from conversing much with Deer's mom during my stay, but that didn't prevent her giving me several hugs, as if that would change my mind. Deer packed a few things herself, and the whole family smiled and waved as turned onto the dark rural roads. We found a hotel in Chiang Rai where we spent the night. Day 126 didn't begin until we woke up the next morning.

While she entertained her coworkers for the next few days, she wouldn't have much time to spend with me. I figured this would be the best time to complete my swing through Laos. I didn't tell her this though until the last possible moment. She was under the impression I would pass the time signing up for one of the hill tribe trekking tours that are so popular in Thailand. I waited an hour after she had gotten dressed and left me in the room, then went downstairs to check out. An ATM replenished my money belt with hard currency. Laos had no money machines with international capabilities. At the bus station, I gave Deer a call.

"Hi Deer, this is Mark. I'm going to Laos today."

"How are you getting there?"

"I'm taking a bus. I'll call you when I get back to Bangkok, okay?" I wasn't trying to make this a soap opera. I had several good, practical reasons for going about it this way.

(I didn't begin today's post at the border is because I felt it was necessary to explain why I wasn't staying longer in Chiang Rai. And to accurately report the way things happened. For those interested, I don't think this will be the last appearance she makes in my trip.)

I climbed onto another rattler. When enough passengers had climbed aboard, we pulled out of the station. The route took us on the roads I had driven on so many times in the past few days. Having an entire bench to myself, I was able to stretch out and sleep for a portion of the three hour ride. The Thai passengers got off at various villages along the way. By the time we reached Chiang Khong, only two other foreigners and myself remained on board.

"Laos?" I told one of the tuk tuk drivers waiting for us.

"Okay," he replied, and beckoned me to get on board.

"How much?"

"20 baht." I smiled. Travelling is so much more fun when people aren't always trying to rip you off.

A dusty road led to the riverbank, where boats awaited to take us across the border. On the way, I couldn't help noticing the driver was drinking a bottle of tonic that Deer sold. Since she was the only distributor in northern Thailand, I knew that it had to come from her store. Her presence was everywhere...

Exit stamp, entry stamp, and I was in Laos. Huay Xai is nothing more than a small town who's business centers around ferry landings for boats and travellers. Finding a guesthouse was easy; Quite a few had sprung up to cater to the backpacking crowd. Accomodation was cheap, and three currencies, US dollars, Thai baht, and Laos kip, were are accepted in everyday usage. I paid for my room in Thai baht, but also wanted to have some local currency on hand. My guesthouse owner did the exchange, giving me a favorable rate and making me an instant millionare in Laos kip.

With a fat stack bulging in my pockets, I decided to go spend some of it. A riverside restaurant attracted my attention. The setting was great, the service slow and torturous. Dinner turned into a two hour affair. I have the patience of buddha when it comes to waiting for buses or girls to finish shopping, but when I'm hungry, I want to eat!

There wasn't much to do eating, and so I returned to my room and turned in early. The ceiling fan whirred overhead, my stuff scattered all over the floor... As Lisa would put it, it's back to the same ol', same ol'.


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at June 25, 2005 05:35 AM

Comments