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June 29, 2005
Not a fun ride
(Day 132) I had thought about staying on Phonsavanh another day, so I wasn't spending every other day on a bus. Distances between towns aren't very far, but travel by land still requires several hours, eating up an entire day. However, with the only internet cafe in town being expensive and torturously slow, I decided I would be happier moving on.
Sean and Charlotte (from my Plain of Jars tour yesterday) had managed to secure a ride to the bus station from the guesthouse owner, so at 6:00am, I was waiting out front to join them.
"Why aren't you taking the VIP bus?" I asked them. The VIP bus left an hour later than the normal one, and could've given us an extra hour's sleep.
"We want to get back to Vientienne as soon as possible." They had left their passports there to get a Chinese visa, since they were planning on visiting China next. I probably could've waited for the VIP, but I was already here anyways, so I joined them on the regular bus.
I'm no longer a rookie when it comes to travelling, and many things that would've surprised me three months ago no longer do. A herd of cows (or goats, at higher altitudes) standing in the middle of the road, blocking the way, is just another normal occurence. Buses that would be collecting social security had they lived in America have become a primary mode of transportation. Stunning alpine scenery, workers toiling in rice fields... seen it, seen it. Sometimes I have to remind myself how lucky I am to be able to experience these sights.
Not to say everything I see feels stale. Observing people in rural parts of the world is something I'll never get tired of. Watching children is the especially rewarding. Young boys, maybe around 7 or 8 years of age, bringing wood back to their homes, just like their parents. Little girls carrying their baby siblings on their backs. And of course, being kids, laughing and playing games with their companions. It was like watching an inspirational film.
We stopped on the side of the road for a pee break. No bewilderment on my part anymore. Most of the passengers got off and took care of business in the bushes. I, having mastered the skill of bladder control, didn't feel the urge to go, and could hold out until we reached Vientienne. A few minutes later, we started moving again.
After only going 50m or so, someone in the back shouted something. The bus was again brought to a halt. Everyone turned around and looked back.
"Did we leave someone behind?" Sean wondered aloud.
This was indeed the case. The forgotten man didn't seem too concerned as he casually strolled back to his place. I found the whole debacle quite funny. An inspirational comedy!
I like to think that I've become accustomed to traffic in southeast asia, where people drive on whatever side of the road is most convenient. But today's driver took reckless driving to a whole new level. Going uphill wasn't too bad; the bus didn't have the horsepower to manage more than a slow climb. Going downhill though scared the shit out of me. The winding roads were treated like a video game. The horn was used to warn people ahead that we were coming through, and to get out of the way or risk being run over. Speed limits were governed by driver's whim, and this guy had a real need for speed.
Sitting next to me was a ragged, one-eyed, man, who started suffering from motion sickness after a couple hours. He puked up the contents of his breakfast into a plastic bag, making a big stink in the process. Each time he filled a barf bag (three in all), he'd reach across my body to toss it out the window. I made no effort to hide my disgusted grimace. I'm sure he wasn't having much fun, but I wasn't having the time of my life either. An inspirational, comedic, horror movie. That's what I was going through.
"This is the craziest bus driver I've seen. Did you see the speed we went through those villages at? Crazy!" said Sean when we breaked for lunch. "Sorry to have dragged you into this."
"No, it's not your fault. I didn't have to take this bus, I could've waited for the VIP."
"Yeah, but you probably figured we knew what we were doing, right?"
Fortunately things soon got better. Cyclops changed seats to sit next to his friend, and a more agreeable person took his place. Our half-brained driver continued his NASCAR audition, but we had made it to lower altitudes and flatter ground. If we did take a spill off the road, we'd only fall into a ditch and not tumble down some mountain face. Primitive huts started being replaced by more solidly built buildings. It felt like we had returned to normal civilization.
More things I've become accustomed to. Staring out the window at towering karst formations. Arriving in an unpaved, dusty, lot that served as a bus station. Tuk tuk drivers offering rides as soon as they saw our backpacker backpacks. Being transported into town and checking into a guesthouse. Sprawling out on a bed, thankful to finally be at my destination.
I never feel guilty about splurging right after an exhausting journey. After today's episode, I was ready to be pampered like a celebrity. I found a nice fancy restaurant and treated myself to a plate of spaghetti, which I've had a craving for for the longest time. Afterwards, I went to a (legitimate) massage parlor to get all the aches and pains worked out of my tired body.
An inspirational, comedic, horror flick... with a happy ending!
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at June 29, 2005 08:36 AM
Comments
back in bangkok. not my favorite place to be, it's kinda boring here, but i need to stay here a few days to get some visas sorted out. then its off too uh.. some yet to be determined country.
oh, and i'm pretty much caught up. i think that's cause for celebration. i'm gonna hit the bangkok bars tonight.
Posted by: markyiin at June 29, 2005 08:41 AM
Man, I'm surprised you didn't get sick on that bus ride too. That scary cyclops even looks scary in that picture with his eyes closed =P
Glad to hear you got to relax at the end of the day with a "legitimate" massage. Those aches and pains must be but a distant memory now! ;-)
Posted by: Tree at June 29, 2005 03:30 PM
Day 131 entry is very sobering... and then day 132 - I laughed out loud, more than once, at work: buses on SS, bladder mastering, half-brained driver, one-eyed barfer, spaghetti (what?!), and the legit (guess you gotta specify) happy ending! Crazy.
And now back in Bangkok, cause for "how long 'til we hear from Mark this time?" Have fun!
Posted by: Lisa at June 29, 2005 07:10 PM
This is the first time you've refered to a massage as "legitimate". Makes me wonder what type the others you received were.
Posted by: Jon at June 30, 2005 10:02 AM