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June 07, 2005

The James Bond tour

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(Day 109) I've never seen "The Man with the Golden Gun," but thanks to the internet, I can figure out the plot. James Bond is targeted by some evil villain with a golden gun, and sets out on a mission to find his assassin. Along the way, he finds out about the Solex Agitator, a device capable of harnessing the energy of the sun, and is then tasked with retrieving it from the hands of the bad guys. Parts of the movie were to take place in China. However, China was a closed country at the time, and so Ao Phang Nga in Thailand was chosen as a replacement set.

In addition to making millions of dollars for the producers, the movie has also given tour operators a theme to run a trip around. I booked the tour, despite having read lukewarm reviews, because it's one of those things that, if you're in the area, you might as well do.

I've decided there are three things that can make or break a tour. First, is the guide. My guide worked double duty, explaining everything in english for me and the Australian couple, then repeating it in Thai for the three Thai couples. His ability to speak competent english was an surprising bonus. I was expecting nothing more than a sightseeing trip.

We were driven two hours to Phang Nga, crossing the bridge that connected Phuket to the mainland. A quick stop at Suwankuha temple to see the reclining Buddha, and then it was off to the jetty. The nine of us were fitted with lifejackets and taken out to the longtail boats. A noisy engine propelled us past the scenic bay of limestone mountains and mangrove forests.

The second thing that determines how enjoyable a tour is are my fellow tourists. Over the roar of the engine, I got to know the Thai couple sitting in front of me. Nando and Deer were very friendly.

"How long have you been in Thailand?" asked Deer.

"Only about a week or so."

"How long will you be here?"

"Not sure yet, maybe a few more weeks? I plan on going to Bangkok and then maybe heading up to northern Thailand."

"Oh. I live in Chiang Rai." She wrote down her cell number for me. "You can call me if you go there."

Accompanied by other longtail boats, we sped through the murky waters, passing phallic and mammary shaped mountains on the way. Trees and bushes grew precariously on the side of the cliffs. We arrived at a sea cave, where our driver tried to take us through. The current was too strong though, so we circled around and entered from the other direction.

Finally, it was time for the main event. In the movie, the arch villain Scaramanga sets up base on these odd shaped islands, most famous of which is this needle shaped protrusion from the water. James Bond Island has become extremely touristy, with dozens of stalls selling trinkets and souvenirs to the hordes of sightseers. I had my James Bond moment, stole Nando's girlfriend for my Bond girl picture, and then just loitered around until it was time to go.

The third and last component of a good trip is the weather. Some sunshine would've been nice for my pictures (I've had to 'warmify' a few of them before uploading), but the mist hanging around the mountain peaks had its own appeal. If I wasn't keeping a picture blog, I would've had no complaints at all. The dreary skies seemed to suit this landscape perfectly.

By the time we reached the Muslim fishing village for lunch though, it had begun to rain. The boat docked and everyone scrambled under the roof just as it started to really pour.

"Hopefully the rain will stop after we finish eating so we can go back," our guide told us.

"It looks like we might have to spend the night here if it doesn't," said Mick, the Australian guy.

Faced with the prospects of being stuck here for a while, everyone decided to get to know each other over lunch. I'm not sure whether it's the fact that I'm travelling alone or simply my stunning good looks (I prefer to think the latter), but I seem to attract a lot of attention from local Thais.

"You come alone?" asked Noi, the Thai woman wearing blue in the group picture.

"Yeah."

"I see couple, couple, couple, then you," she smiled. "No girlfriend in America?" We had already gone around in a circle, stating our names and nationalities.

"Nope, no one. Just me."

"You need a Thai girlfriend then! I can introduce you! Nobody should be alone in Thailand!"

"Find a job and stay here," laughed Deer.

I couldn't tell if they were joking or not. But I played along when she grilled me on my age, occupation, and vital statistics.

"All this is going to end up on the internet," cracked Mick.

She took out her digital camera to take pictures of everyone around the table, but ostensibly took longer when it was my turn.

"Wait, wait!" I fixed my hair. Just in case I do end up on some Thai dating website.

As if planned, the rain stopped falling just as it was time to go. We were brought back to the shuttle began the return journey to Phuket. Deer was extremely talkative to me during ride, giving me all sorts of tips on what to do, where to go, and how to avoid the crowds.

"We're going to see the FantaSea show tonight," she said. "You should see it, it's really good. Give me a call if you do decide to go."

I ended up not going. I felt it was something I wouldn't regret missing.

We stopped at a cashew nut plantation and the world's largest jewelry store (I had no idea this was on Phuket) before being taken back to our hotels. Noi, the matchmaker, gave me her cell phone number and asked that I call her when I reached Bangkok.

A friend of mine emailed me several days ago, warning me to watch out when it came to women in Asian countries. If all this had transpired while I was having a cup of coffee at Starbucks, I'd be more wary. But my instincts tell me that unless the scams have extended their operations to tour groups, this was just a case of someone genuinely being sociable. I haven't yet decided whether I'm going to call them, but I have to say, the friendliness of the Thai just continues to amaze me!


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at June 7, 2005 01:53 AM

Comments

i'm kind of curious who's visiting my page, so all you people who have been quiet so far, speak up! :)

matt: hmm, i dont think bangkok is that bad. i guess it's a bit polluted, but jakarta was so much worse... i might end up staying a few days.. i need to figure out where i'm going next!

lisa: i was a software tester before i left home. you know, i'd like to be published someday, that'd be really awesome, but as a career? i dont know... i dont want to spend my first few years a starving artist while i try to carve my niche in the industry!

Posted by: markyiin at June 7, 2005 02:30 AM

I've been trying to catch up on all the readings so this is my first time posting.
I found this site from ATOT forum.
This is just awesome of what you're doing.

Are you planning to visit Vietnam and if you do, please take lots and lots of pictures.

Posted by: Chung at June 7, 2005 02:45 AM

Hey Mark,
I've been following since the "I quit my job today" thread at ATOT.
I was curious if you've seen a lot of the bootleg software/movies that Thailand is sort of infamous for. Is it really as commonplace as I've heard?

Posted by: Robert at June 7, 2005 07:13 AM

Mark, do you have data on how many people visit this site each day? I'm kinda curious about that myself.

Posted by: Ave at June 7, 2005 08:02 AM

Tha Thai people are very friendly lol!

It does seem like your heading into the raining season- that stinks.

So your in bagkok now? Well, like I said some people love it and I did have some fun there when I stayed on Ko San Rd. Go to that resturuant!!!

Posted by: Matt at June 7, 2005 09:22 AM

Mark, yeah i have also been following since the i want to quit my job thread. :- ) keep up the good work, it seems like you are having fun, just wondering how it will get when you get to the more urban cities like Hong Kong, or Tokyo :- )

Posted by: chapa at June 7, 2005 09:33 AM

Mark, I've been following everyday also. First thing I do when I get to office is visit espn and your site is second, haha. Keep up the good work. How much long are you going to stay in thailand? Is vietnam next?

Posted by: Simon at June 7, 2005 11:20 AM

I've been following along the whole time, Mark (I have to do my world touring vicariously). Keep up the good work.

Posted by: Rich at June 7, 2005 12:24 PM

Hey Mark,

I started following your journey when you were writing about Australia. I found your website when I doing research to find a cheap yet reliable web host and I followed a link to your blog. I've been stopping by ever since.

I wish I could do something like you're doing, but I do plan on going to NZ at the end of the year for 2 weeks. Your NZ entries are going to be very helpful when I'm planning.

Stay safe and keep up the good work with this travel blog! If Bangkok turns into "The Dating Game", make sure you post some photos so we can help you decide who to choose.

Posted by: Bing at June 7, 2005 12:30 PM

Hey man -- I've been following along pretty close since the Outback. Awesome stuff -- every once in a while I have to IM rangan to say, "Yo -- look what mark's doing now!" so he's seen most of it too.

keep it up! Although it sounds like you got plenty of steam left. So maybe the question is, how are you ever gonna come back?

Posted by: ceric at June 7, 2005 02:42 PM

I been reading for about 2 weeks now. Read thru the hole blog and now look forward to updates.

Posted by: gw at June 7, 2005 03:11 PM

Hi I found your page on someone else's page on www.xanga.com. I just visited China, Japan, thailand, and Indonesia in April. It was amazing. I didn't have a chance to visit the South of Thailand because we didn't have enough time. But I LOVED Bangkok....and I did what I planned to do which was visit a monastery and mediate....
I travel every year, I should do a website too...

Posted by: Darlynne at June 7, 2005 04:28 PM

Mark, I have been reading your website looking for the "I want my job back" post. I am glad that the trip has turned out as exciting as it first sounded.

Your blog has been very interesting to read, keep it up. I am looking forward to see what is coming up.

Posted by: Tony at June 7, 2005 08:55 PM

mehehe, I check your blog every day at work...and make those awesome photos my desktop background! I've been reading it ever since Anna told me about your trip. I wish I had the guts to drop everything in my current life and go on a trek around the world.

Posted by: karen at June 8, 2005 02:15 AM

Whats ATOT?

Posted by: A College Roomate at June 12, 2005 07:21 PM