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July 02, 2005

Back on Khao San

(Day 134) In the early morning, bunks were folded back into seats, and I sat staring out the window until we pulled into Hualamphung train station. Another ten minutes on the back of a tuk-tuk, and I was again walking down the backpacker mecca of Khao San Road.

Though this was familiar territory, I wasn't particularly glad to be back. As touristy as you can get, Khao San's only attraction to me is it's convenience. Every taxi and tuk-tuk driver knew where it was. Decent guesthouses could be found, with adequate rooms and clean shower facilities. And the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew are only a short walk away, in case I ever decided to go see Bangkok's two biggest sights.

I checked into the same place I had stayed at last time I was here, this time forgoing air conditioning to save a few baht. A hot shower cleaned off the dirt I had collected while in Laos, then it was off to McDonald's, the place I go to when I'm feeling the slightest bit homesick. (A Big Mac is like the perfect homesick pill for me.) The weather felt like rain, so I returned to my guesthouse and worked on my blog between naps. And that's about all I did until sundown.

Khao San had turned into a neon lit party by the time I emerged from my room. A true freak show is probably the best way to describe it. Grungy backpackers sporting dreadlocks, young kids who's idea of a vacation is getting wasted every night, males of every age proudly showing off the Thai girl that will continue to be his until his wallet runs dry. Revelers weren't just farang, even a good number of Thais show up every evening to partake in the merrymaking. I can't say I enjoyed the scene; it was a bit too hedonistic for me.

I had some pad thai (the local equivalent of fast food) from one of the many street vendors, and walked up and down the repetitive scene of bootleg CDs, souvenir tshirts, and 7-11s. A couple times, during my aimless wandering, escorts would try to latch onto me. "Where are you going?" they'd ask as they grabbed a hold of my shirt, to which I'd respond with the best anti-pickup line ever: Sorry, my wife is waiting. It worked every time. I love my imaginary wife.

A Vietnam visa takes three business days to obtain, and with the weekend sandwiched in between, I'd have to put up with this for at least five more days. The only thing I had to look forward to was seeing Deer, who was back in Bangkok for a few days on business. Somehow she always managed to find time in her busy schedule of meetings and press conferences to meet up with me. Tonight though, she wasn't free until almost midnight.

"You look tired," I told her when we finally got together.

"A little bit."

"You should've just stayed home to sleep."

"No, I'm okay," she insisted.

We had a drink at a bar, where she tried her best to be energetic, but she couldn't quite hide her yawns well enough.

"Let me take you home," I said, and dropped her off at her apartment before taking a cab back to my own room. There was no reason for her to push herself while she was tired. I'm stuck here for a few more days anyways.


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at July 2, 2005 01:28 AM

Comments

i think i answered a couple questions about seeing deer in this post :)

matt: you can pretty much get visas anywhere in bangkok. travel agencies make it easy, and its probably worth the fee since you save taxi fare.

justin: if you give me angelina jolie's phone number, i'll give her a call and see if she wants to hang out.

anna: haha, i heard about the catfish. the fish species in the mekong can get really big!

chung: waiting in the visa, then it should be 2-3 weeks before i get to vietnam. that is, unless i get sidetracked somewhere.

frank: most of thailand, you cant even tell there was a tsunami. phuket and krabi are all fixed up. ko phi phi is a different story. theres really no reason to go there now except to do volunteer work. the beaches arent safe and a lot of the island is still a mess. i heard a lot of different rumors while i was there, but i really cant say which are true.

Posted by: markyiin at July 2, 2005 01:45 AM

There is an article in today's World Journal, reporting that the Prime Minister of Thailand is visiting China and looking for his root of ancestor because his mother is a Chinese descendant.

Posted by: Frank at July 3, 2005 02:41 PM

Reunited once again, huh? :)

Sounds cool that you will get to see the different parts of Asia. I don't think I know anyone who has ever been to Vietnam or Cambodia, so I'm looking forward to hearing and seeing those places through your site! Are you planning on visiting all of Asia? Will you ever head to Europe as well, or is Asia your last continent on the agenda?

Posted by: tree at July 4, 2005 12:57 AM

So once you're off to Vietnam, does that mean that you're not heading back to Thailand again? Are you ready to forge ahead in your journey? What other parts of Asia are you planning to hit up aside from Vietnam? Are you planning to hit up Japan and the Philippines as well? -GEM

Posted by: GEM at July 4, 2005 06:31 PM

Lucky you, Mark... You got to see all 12 apostles in Aussie. One of them just crumbled.

Posted by: alex at July 4, 2005 09:43 PM

happy fourth of july man!

Posted by: Matt at July 5, 2005 12:28 AM

got lazy and fell behind again. updates in a few hours.

Posted by: markyiin at July 5, 2005 01:30 AM

How much $ have you spent? How much $ left? When I get my green card, I am going traveling too. For sure.

Posted by: Jack at July 5, 2005 02:11 AM

How're things with Deer? What happens when you leave Thailand *for good*?

Posted by: Ray at July 5, 2005 09:41 AM

Hi

Just happened upon your blog whilst looking up Oodnadata Track.
I did the GG tour about 4 weeks before you - the excuse for the bus being late was a flat tyre!
It was great to see your photo's and to be reminded of the names of the places through your blog. I must be more disciplined next time I go away.
I'm going to read your NZ entries next time.
All the best on your travels. Your writing is very evocative and enjoyable

Vanessa UK

Posted by: Vanessa at July 7, 2005 05:04 PM