M-whY

Today's itinerary included just the Roluous group, a collection of three temples located approximately 25km southeast of the main Angkor complex. Knowing I wouldn't need as much time to visit them, I slept in, not getting out of bed til 10am. As usual, Khorn was goofing off downstairs, waiting for me to get ready. I took a few more minutes to eat some breakfast, before hopping back on the motorbike and heading out of town.

It's generally accepted that the Angkor era lasted from 802 to 1432 AD, beginning when Jayavarman II installed himself as king. 39 rulers would follow before the empire's mysterious collapse. Indravarman I, who ruled from 877 to 889, set the precedent for his sucessors by building Bakong, the first of the massive temple mountains, near the present day town of Roluous. It would serve as the center of the kingdom until his son Yasovarman I moved it with the construction of Bakheng (where I had seen the sunset a few days earlier).

Bakong wasn't the largest I had seen, nor did it have the most intricate carvings, but I was still impressed. It's worth visiting just for a sense of the Angkor timeline. I sat at the pinnacle, reading about Angkor history, thoroughly enjoying myself, but with a bit of regret knowing this would be my last day. I don't doubt that someday, I'll return to this place again to relive it all.

"Have your key?" I asked Khorn.

"Yep. Not like yesterday," he laughed.

Nearby was Preah Ko, which when translated, means 'sacred bull.' Also built by Indravarman I, it was intended as a funeral temple for the king's ancestors. My first impressions weren't that great. The complex seemed small, and apparently some restoration efforts were taking place, blocking access to much of the site. Three statues of nandi, the mount of the Hindu deity, Shiva, were also in rather poor condition. I admit, I gave this temple a very cursory inspection before moving on.

"I think it's going to rain," commented Khorn as we raced off to Lolei. By far the smallest ruins I'd visited, it was dominated by a more modern buddhist temple right next door. Like the rest of the Roluous group, the towers opened on the east, with fake doors on the other three sides.

I was done with it all by half past noon. Khorn's prediction was accurate, as rain began pouring on our way back. Lasting for all of five minutes, it was enough to turn the dusty streets into a muddy mess.

Everywhere around Siem Reap, there were these advertisements for blind massages. Administered by the visually impaired, I had heard good things about them, and decided to try it out. The perfect combination of kneading and pounding, it turned out to be a great way to wind down after all my temple exploring.

I wondered at first whether my masseuse was really blind, but it was easy to tell there was really something wrong with her eyes. Her handicap posed a bit of a problem when it came time to pay. I had no small bills left on me.

"Do you have change?" I asked, handing her a US$10 note. (If you haven't guessed by now, US dollars are accepted just about everywhere in Cambodia.)

"How much is this?"

"$10."

"Wait please," and she disappeared to some room in the back. She came back later with a five and five ones. I peeled off the correct amount and handed it to her. By far the best massage I've had, it had cost only US$3!

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