M-whY

Jo, David, and I had signed up for a two day, bus-boat combination, tour that would eventually put us in Ho Chi Minh City, aka, Saigon. While on the water, some paperwork was passed out and filled to facilitate the border crossing. Cambodia granted us leave, after which we were ferried another kilometer into no man's land to walk into Vietnam. Our guide took our off passports to get stamped, probably saving me from the cold stares of immigration officials. Never a cheerful bunch to begin with, I've heard they can become even more sour upon seeing blue American passports.

"Did you see that?!" exclaimed Jo as we walked to the restaurant where we'd wait.

"Yeah, the motorbike with the cages of rats in back?"

"That's got to be one of the most disgusting things I've seen!"

We took a seat in the restaurant and ordered some lunch. I had a bowl of beef noodles (at least I hope it was beef). David and Jo ordered fried rice (with no meat). Little Vietnamese kids swarmed around us, trying to sell us drinks, snacks, and cigarettes. I usually hate when that happens, but these kids did it in such a playful manner, I dare say, they were actually cute.

As we ate, another motorbike carrying caged rats drove by. David pushed his plate away disgustedly.

"I can't eat anymore."

Our passports were soon returned to us. We paid our bill, and got up to leave. A little boy had latched onto my stuff, offering to carry it for me. Being in a good mood today, I let him have it. I pack fairly light, only about 17 kilos worth, though for a young kid, it's still quite a burden. At times, I thought he would topple over, the way he buckled under the weight. I grabbed a handle and took most of the weight off his shoulders, but left the straps on his shoulders, giving him the impression he was still helping out. We marched side by side to the immigration office, where he'd have to wait outside while our bags were x-rayed.

No one had any concealed weapons, so it didn't take us long to get through. A new guide took over, and took us down to a different boat to continue the Vietnamese portion of the journey. As we boarded our new transport, my little helper again appeared on the banks. I knew what he wanted. A tip for his efforts. I wasn't about to shortchange him, taking out some small bills and motioning for him to come aboard and get it. I had expected him to use the plank, but to my surprise, upon seeing the money, he leapt into the water and doggypaddled to the side of the boat. Wow, he had sure earned that tip!

First thing I noticed about Vietnam was that every home (and even some boats) had a TV antenna. Towns look like pincushions, with all the metal sticking up from the rooftops. The Vietnamese must really love their television. I can just imagine a typical household conversation.

Wife: Honey, can you go to the market and pick up a dozen rats for dinner?
Husband: Can't you see I'm trying to watch the game? I'll go later.

(No offense to Vietnamese intended. For all I know, maybe they were just lab rats.)

The boat ride was pleasant enough, except for a brief 20 minute storm. Chau Doc was where we'd spend the night, and after checking into a hotel (included in the price of the tour), we had some free time to explore. Primarily a stopover for people making the Phnom Penh - Ho Chi Minh City (or vice versa) run, it didn't boast a huge traveller scene. No bars, no western themed restaurants, not even an internet cafe. Just a bunch of locals dressed in colorful clothing and conical hats.

I ran into David and Jo again outside the market.

"Did you see any McDonald's or Burger King's around?" asked David, half serious, half jokingly.

"No, I saw a few places to eat down that way though." We took a seat at restaurant that was nothing more than a hole in the wall. The proprietor stared at us for a few moments, as if wondering what exactly she should do with the three foreigners in her shop, before bringing out a crude english menu.

"I'll have the rice paper rolls with pork," I ordered.

"Same here."

"I want what they're having," said David, pointing at the table across from us.

The food came out quickly, much to my growling stomach's delight. The name of the dish implied that I was to roll the meat in the rice paper, but what exactly were we supposed to do with the raw vegetables in front of us?

"Do we have fluffy tails and long ears or something?" David quipped.

A group of schoolgirls sitting nearby giggled as we picked at the dish of green. Even the owner showed an interest in our incompetence, standing at a respectable distance and observing our every move. Finally, when it became clear we'd never figure out for ourselves, she came over and demonstrated what to do.

Taking a piece of lettuce, she placed on top of it a chunk of pineapple, a slice of cucumber, a sprig of mint, a stalk of green onion, a wedge of green banana, and wrapped all of that around the rice paper and spring roll, creating something that looked like this. In a swift motion, she stuffed it in David's mouth.

We doubled over in laughter. Our first introduction to authentic Vietnamese food, and we had to be taught how to eat!

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!