M-whY

Like the day before, I arrived tired from not sleeping well. I decided to rest a bit before exploring Hoi An. A four hour nap made me feel better, but apparently, I was still pretty disoriented.

"Hey! You're going the wrong way. That way to Highway 1," shouted a motorbike driver.

"Huh?"

"Hoi An Old Town that way," he said, pointing in the opposite direction I was walking in. "I'll take you, 10,000 dong (US$1 = 15,000 dong)."

Having pointed out my mistake and saved me from walking back to Nha Trang, I accepted his ride offer. He dropped me off at the Japanese Covered Bridge, constructed in 1593 and featured a small temple built into it. I walked across and began my search for a ticket booth. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, many of the attractions now charge an entrance fee to raise money for future preservation and restoration. A ticket entitles the holder entry to one of the three museums, one of the four old houses, one of the assembly halls, and the choice of attending a traditional music concert or handicraft workshop. Over a plate of 'white rose' and a bowl of cao lau, both Hoi An-ese specialities, I agonized over which ones to visit. Fortunately, the restaurant owner came over and decided for me.

"Visit this one, this one, and this one," she said, circling them on my brochure. Her advice was as good as any, so I set out on the route she outlined.

First up was the Museum of Trading Ceramics, which housed some exhibits on the different types of ceramics that used to pass through Hoi An. A fine mosaic was displayed in the courtyard of the restored home. Also within the walls were displays about the architectural history of the town. As museums go, it was quite small, but perfect for someone with a short attention span like myself.

Phuc Kien Assembly Hall was a short walk away. Most notable here were the huge coils of burning incense hanging from the ceiling and the creepy looking statuaries. Nearby was Quan Cong's Temple, dedicated to a highly esteemed Chinese general who became the symbol of loyalty, sincerity, integrity, and justice. The brochure that came with my ticket didn't contain much information on either of these, so I did nothing more than gaze, admire, and move on.

Tan Ky House was closed for lunch, so I hired an old woman for a boat ride on the river to pass time. On the way back, we stopped to see her family, who seemed to live in a small boat on the water. Her daughter (or granddaughter) came aboard and tried selling me postcards. My tolerance for souvenir hawking little kids depends on my mood, and today I was feeling good enough to buy a set. (I still haven't gotten around to mailing out the Angkor Wat postcards.) Before I left, she asked me for some Singaporean coins (I had made up my nationality again) for her collection. I didn't have any on me, so I left her with another dollar to make her happy.

Tan Ky House, built over 200 years ago, was the first old house to be certified as part of Hoi An's national heritage. A sign in front also claimed that it was the only one to be visited by national and international leaders. Seven generations have lived under its roof, and upon entering, I was greeted by a member of the sixth, who brought me a cup of tea and gave me a tour of her home. She pointed out Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese influences in its architecture, and showed off family antiques, some of which required closer inspection to really appreciate.

For the rest of the day, I simply strolled through the streets, exploring the dozens of souvenir shops. Art galleries inspired me to return to my room and try my own hand at Vietnamese art. (I'm not trying to mock anyone, that's how it really was!) In the evening, I returned to the waterfront for dinner and to catch the traditional music performace. It didn't start til later though, and so I was about to kill time at an internet cafe when I noticed a show being set up on one of the street corners. I didn't understand a word of what was being sung, but the colorful costumes still made it an enjoyable spectacle. I ended up skipping the traditional instruments; One performance a night is good enough for me.

In the late 18th century, Hoi An's trade activity quickly deteriorated for a number of reasons. The river became shallower, a competing port at Danang was built, etc. Also contributing to the demise was the limited economical policy of the Nguyen dynasty, whose capital I would be visiting next.

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