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September 30, 2005
Dreams
(Day 221) When I was a kid, it was my dream to one day play in the NBA. Not for the money or glory. Basketball has been a passion of mine since I can remember. My journey to stardom was derailed however when I stopped growing at around age 17. My career would be limited to hustling people on the university courts for free Gatorades. Nothing that will ever make ESPN.
Posted by markyiin at 07:44 AM | Comments (8)
September 28, 2005
Yuyuan Gardens
(Day 220) I hate to make it a recurring theme in my blog, but I've been feeling really lethargic lately. I blame the discomfort in my stomach. Something I ate back in Wuhan disagreed with me, causing stuff to pass through my system without getting properly digested. On this day I was feeling a bit better, enough to head out to Yuyuan Gardens, one of Shanghai's premier sights - though I was wary not to consume too much in case I'd have an 'emergency' later.
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Posted by markyiin at 04:25 AM | Comments (4)
Visa Extension
(Day 219) "Shanghai really isn't China," Uncle Naron was saying. "People visit and go home thinking, 'Wow, China's going to rule the world in ten, fifteen years.' But no where else comes even close to matching Shanghai. You know what I'm talking about, you've been out west." Modern and sophisticated, Shanghai is the poster child of China's growth. Compared to the less glamorous places, the difference is striking, even appalling. The disparity between the rich and the poor... a gap that's only getting wider. To echo a sentiment that I've heard a couple times: This is a country that appears to be moving forwards and backwards at the same time.
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Posted by markyiin at 04:21 AM | Comments (1)
September 27, 2005
Shanghai
(Day 218) It's funny how I can spend two-thirds of an 18 hour train ride sleeping (on a bunk, not a seat) and still be tired at the end of it. It's almost like my body recognizes it's being transported and wears itself out to make up for the displacement.
Posted by markyiin at 02:49 AM | Comments (5)
Wuhan
(Day 217) There are some cities you inevitably pass through because they serve as convenient transportation hubs. Wuhan, capital of Hubei province and another typical Chinese metropolis, is one of these. There's not a lot to do here, save for a few mediocre sights which were not worth the hassle of getting to, especially with the unbearable heat today.
Posted by markyiin at 12:30 AM | Comments (1)
September 25, 2005
The Three Gorges
(Day 216) We passed the first of the Three Gorges at 6:00am in the morning. I shouldn't have to say it, but I will. It was CGTC all over the decks. Probably 400 passengers were on board. About half had woken up (or been woken up) to see Qutang Gorge. The view decks aren't big. Chaos, chaos, chaos.
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Posted by markyiin at 03:25 AM | Comments (2)
September 24, 2005
Superstitions and legends
(Day 215) The Three Gorges, inspiration for countless poets and painters, are the highlight of any Yangzi river tour. It's unreasonable to expect towering peaks throughout the whole journey though. The gorges are only a small part of the trip, and we wouldn't reach the first until tomorrow. Today would just be a day of cruising downriver.
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Posted by markyiin at 02:34 AM | Comments (1)
September 23, 2005
Classes
(Day 214) A river cruise down the Yangzi has long been a popular draw in China. Most boats, including mine, leave from a city called Chongqing, some time in the evening. Chengdu and Chongqing are only five hours apart, so therefore, I was a bit surprised when my hostel asked me to be ready by 7:00am.
Posted by markyiin at 10:32 PM | Comments (1)
September 21, 2005
Sichuan cuisine
(Day 203) Sichuan, or Szechuan if you're looking at a Chinese takeout menu, is known to have some of the best eats in the country. There's even a saying that goes: China is the place for food, but Sichuan is the place for flavor. I haven't had any Western food in about three weeks. McDonald's and KFC looked really tempting. But to eat there when I have the opportunity for authentic Sichuan cuisine? It would've been a waste...
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Posted by markyiin at 01:14 PM | Comments (6)
Aching in Chengdu
(Day 212) Over the last three weeks, I've biked around Yangshuo, walked the Tiger Leaping Gorge, and climbed down Mt Emei. Individually, none of those activities are very demanding, but collectively, without proper rest in between, they've pushed my body to the limits. I woke up this morning, quads aching and calves sore. Fortunately I don't have anything strenuous planned for the near future.
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Posted by markyiin at 11:54 AM | Comments (2)
Monkeys on Mt Emei
(Day 211) It was time for it all to go downhill, after peaking on my 25th birthday. Rather than taking the bus, I decided to do it by foot. The route I wanted to take was an estimated 10-12 hour walk, depending on pace, number of breaks, etc. If I couldn't finish by the end of the day, temples and monasteries along the way offered cheap accomodation.
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Posted by markyiin at 06:33 AM | Comments (5)
September 16, 2005
Peaking
(Day 210) World Heritage Mt Emei, extending dozens of kilometers in breadth and length, is also the largest of the four sacred Buddhist peaks. Crowds of tourists and pilgrims are attracted to the number of temples and monasteries scattered around the mountain. Today, it was my goal to reach the summit and spend the night there, for reasons I'll explain later.
Posted by markyiin at 04:49 AM | Comments (14)
Entering Sichuan
(Day 209) Mama suggested a bus to Panzhihua as the quickest way to reach Sichuan province. From there, I'd be back on the rail network and be able to catch a train anywhere. Mercedes, the Argentine girl I met yesterday, decided to make the same trip. I have a hunch she was using me to ease the language barrier - originally she was headed somewhere else - but I didn't mind. It'd give me someone to talk during the day.
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Posted by markyiin at 04:39 AM | Comments (1)
September 14, 2005
Around Lijiang
(Day 208) Two travellers I met on the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek recommended Mama's Naxi Guesthouse as the place to stay in Lijiang, citing a great atmosphere and warm hospitality. They were right. Mama treated all guests like her own children, preparing meals, arranging bus tickets, picking people up from the airport. Originally I had intended on leaving town as soon as possible, but hearing as how dinner at Mama's is not to be missed, I was willing to give Lijiang another chance.
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Posted by markyiin at 09:48 PM | Comments (4)
Tiger Leaping Gorge (Day Two)
(Day 207) A full Tiger Leaping Gorge Trek goes all the way to a town called Daju, a good six to eight hours walk from Halfway House. Like many before me, I would only be going as far as Walnut Garden. The best scenery lies between Qiaotou and Walnut Garden anyways. To do the whole thing would be just for bragging rights.
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Posted by markyiin at 09:41 PM | Comments (3)
The Tiger Leaping Gorge
(Day 206) Not only does Tiger Leaping Gorge have an awesome name, it also happens to be one of the one of the world's deepest gorges. Known as Jinsha River at this point, it rushes between Haba Peak (5000m) and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (6000m), eventually taking on the more recognized name of Yangzi River. A popular activity for those with the time and energy is the two day walk along the high trail, rewarding hikers with views of one of China's most spectacular natural wonders.
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Posted by markyiin at 08:59 AM | Comments (6)
September 11, 2005
A track too well beaten
(Day 205) I have mixed feelings about cultural tourism. On the one hand, it brings money and attention to areas that might otherwise be overlooked. But then again, along with the busloads of visitors come tacky souvenir shops, destroying any authenticity the towns may have. Chances of finding a small moment of tranquillity in a laid-back time warp? Not going to happen.
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Posted by markyiin at 08:00 PM | Comments (12)
Rained out
(Day 204) The night before, rain started falling, and I told myself that if it continued today, I wouldn't leave the hostel. I could use some time to catch my breath and do a little planning. Peer into the crystal ball, and see where Mark will be in the future, you might say. So when I woke and heard the downpour outside, I kept my promise to myself and put away my camera. A rest day it is.
Posted by markyiin at 07:50 PM | Comments (1)
September 07, 2005
Chinese chess on Erhai Lake
(Day 203) Over 50 different ethnicities can be found in China. Today, Han Chinese make up most of the population, at an estimated 90%, though throughout history, the country has been controlled by other ethnic groups such as Manchu and Mongolian. Yunnan province, which is where I happen to be at, provides some of the best opportunities to see these national minorities.
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Posted by markyiin at 11:24 PM | Comments (6)
Getting to Dali
(Day 202) Whoever said getting there is half the fun was probably going to Hawaii, flew first class, and served cheese and crackers the entire way. He obviously didn't spend his time looking for train stations, changing buses, and wondering when and if he'd ever get there. If my bank account had a few more zero's, I would be flying from city to city (and probably be headed to Hawaii too), but as it is, it's the overland route for me.
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Posted by markyiin at 11:19 PM | Comments (0)
Mountain climbing
(Day 201) My muscles ached. My butt was sore. A pile of dirty laundry needed to be done. I had a train to catch in the evening, and the thought of taking it easy til then had really strong appeal. If I spent another day cycling around Yangshuo, even if I took new routes, how different would my pictures and entry be from the previous few?
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Posted by markyiin at 12:02 AM | Comments (7)
September 06, 2005
Making friends in the mountains
(Day 200) Admittedly, one of my reasons for coming to Yangshuo was a hope that I'd meet another traveller to spend time with. Teeming with Westerners and domestic tourists alike, I felt I was bound to run into someone. Unfortunately, solo backpackers aren't as prevalent here as they are in say, Australia or Thailand. The few that were around were lost in the shuffle of sweethearts looking for some romance in the mountains.
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Posted by markyiin at 11:44 PM | Comments (3)
Around Yangshuo
(Day 199) Judging from the local map I had picked up, there seemed to be a good number of biking trails in the area.
"[Do you think I'd be able to manage by myself?]" I asked the Mr Song, hotel manager.
"[It'd probably be better if you took a guide,]" he admitted.
"[Can you arrange one for me?]"
"[Sure, wait a moment, I'll find you a lady,]" he grinned.
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Posted by markyiin at 11:31 PM | Comments (2)
September 02, 2005
Poetry on Moon Hill
(Day 198) One of the peaks in Guilin is inscribed with the following: Guilin's scenery surpasses all. Some time later, someone came up with the second line to the verse: Yangshuo's scenery surpasses Guilin's. From what I saw during my group tour the day before, I can't disagree. A quiet town, no shopping malls, set amongst a beautiful backdrop... I just had to go back.
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Posted by markyiin at 09:27 PM | Comments (12)
September 01, 2005
Li Jiang
(Day 197) While travelling, I've never met an independent backpacker from China; They're always part of one of those infamous group tours. All inclusive package deals where the guide tells everyone where to sleep, when to eat, and what to see. Apparently, that's how the Chinese prefer to travel.
Posted by markyiin at 10:41 PM | Comments (7)
Guilin
(Day 196) I came away with good first impressions of train travel in China. Air conditioned, clean, with smartly dressed stewardesses... I can see why they're a popular way to get around. Unfortunately, sharing my sleeping compartment was a heavy Chinese woman who kept everyone awake with her snoring.
Posted by markyiin at 10:24 PM | Comments (2)
Foshan
(Day 195) Guangzhou isn't without its sights and activities. Browsing through my guidebook though, none of them seemed particularly interesting. I had the day to kill before my overnight train to Guilin. Leaving my luggage in storage at the hostel, I zipped to the bus station and got on the next bus to Foshan.
Posted by markyiin at 01:47 AM | Comments (2)
Guangzhou
(Day 194) Getting into China from Hong Kong is incredibly easy once the visa is arranged. One can get there by plane, train, bus, and probably even by foot. For myself, bus was the most convenient way to go.
Immigration was crowded, as hundreds, if not thousands, of people make the crossing every day. I was the only one on the bus with a foreign passport, and so I got shuffled into a shorter line that moved much more slowly. I picked out a couple of the more distinguishable characters from my bus and kept an eye on them, easing my concern that I might be left behind.
Posted by markyiin at 01:40 AM | Comments (2)
Planning
(Day 193) I don't consider myself a travel writer, because that would make it seem like a job. I blog because its fun, I like getting feedback, and it helps me remember what I did on my trip. I've already cheated a bit, skipping days in Thailand in order to maintain some semblance of privacy, so I can no longer claim this to be a 'daily travelogue', but I still feel days (like today) when I don't do anything of interest should be noted.
Posted by markyiin at 12:06 AM | Comments (1)