M-whY

A couple phone calls later, I was following Ms Liu on a quiet road out of town. I hadn't outlined an exact route, allowing myself to be just taken wherever. Touring by bike seems to be a popular thing to do among tourists though, and we pretty much stuck to the 'beaten track'. Passing 'grapefruit' trees, lush green rice paddies, and of course, lofty limestone pillars, I couldn't help reaching for my camera every few minutes.

Down a dirt path, we arrived at a collection of bamboo rafts. I paid the 130 yuan (US$1 = 8 yuan) fee, while a man hauled my bike aboard. "[I'll meet you at the other end,]" said my guide, as a bamboo pole propelled me past even more stately peaks. Drifting along Yulong River, surrounded countless shades of green... I realize this is my fourth day of touring this type of landscape, but I just can't get enough.

We docked on the riverbanks a couple hours later. Ms Liu had beat me downstream, and was waiting for me to arrive.

"[Where do you want to go next? Moon Hill? The banyan tree?]"

"[I already saw them.]"

"[How about Butterfly Spring?]"

I hadn't been there yet, and probably should've stayed away, as the vista and show wasn't worth the 35 yuan entry fee. Plus, it was nearly 3:00pm. Lunch was long overdue.

"[Can we go back to Yangshuo now? I'm hungry, I want to eat.]"

"[Sorry! Didn't know you were hungry! There's a place nearby we can eat at. If you don't mind eating somewhere outside of the tourist district,]" she added.

Food was two minutes away by her proposal, in contrast to the 35 minutes by mine, so it wasn't a difficult decision. As always, when I hire a freelance guide, I paid for her meal; 50 yuan isn't a big deal to me, but for her, who was only charging me 20 yuan for the entire day, it was probably no small cost. Two bowls of rice were brought out, followed shortly by a whole chicken. And I mean, a WHOLE chicken.

"[Here, if they don't include the head and feet, people will think they didn't get entire thing," she smiled, as I stared at the more unsavory chunks.

"[In America, you'd never see this. It'd gross too many people out.]"

Ms Liu suggested taking the rural route back to town, if I had the energy. With nearly a full chicken in my belly, I was ready to take on just about anything. A short distance up the road, we turned off onto the farmers' paths which led us through laid back villages. It wasn't an easy ride; At times, the path was so rough I wondered if our bikes - especially hers - would make it through in one piece. Trying to absorb my surroundings while keeping an eye on the ground and swerving around children getting off from school proved to be too much multitasking for me, and at one point, I rode straight into the bushes.

"[You live here, you probably don't think anything of the scenery anymore. But it's all still fresh to me!]" I sheepishly explained as I pulled myself out.

Hiring a guide turned out to be a worthy investment, as had I been on my own, I would've had a tough time finding my way. And not only did Ms Liu provide company to talk to, she was also a competent photographer with a clue how to frame a photo (unlike many other people I've handed my camera to). Satisfied with these extra services, I made up my mind to hire her again tomorrow. For another day of touring this otherworldly topography.

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!