M-whY

The phenomenon is also prevalent in China itself. Again, my appearance came in handy, as I was able to sign up for a group tour down Li Jiang (Li River) with a bunch of domestic tourists. Not only did this save me a good chunk of money - the foreigner version with english would've cost me twice as much (500 yuan!) - but it gave me a chance to mingle with the locals. Early in the morning, before I had time to find breakfast, shuttle buses circled town, picking up passengers from the scores of hotels. On the way to Mopan Hill Wharf, we were instructed to memorize the number '08963'. This was the our group number, and the bus we were to look for when we reached Yangzhou.

A cruise down Li Jiang is extremely popular. At least a dozen boats, each carrying at least 50 passengers, worked their way down the river. Surreal landscapes gave me chills even though it was scorching hot outside. One woman, a Guilin native, told me the scenery was even better during spring, when the water levels were higher and the sky not so hazy. Maybe so, but this was already pretty amazing.

No one guessed I was an outsider; The few people I talked to were all surprised to learn I was American and complimented me on my mandarin. This didn't mean I didn't attract attention. The night before, while wandering around Guilin, I came across a souvenir I just had to have. Originally filled with nasty tasting liquor, I had emptied it and made it my new water bottle.

Everyone thought it was a novel idea, especially the ladies. "[I love your thermos.]" "[Is it filled with alcohol?]" they kept asking me. In response, I'd take a swig and pretend to stumble around drunk.

Nothing could've been more intoxicating though than the spectacular topography which has inspired so many paintings and literary works. Like a jade ribbon, we wound our way through countless limestone cliffs. My only complaint was that the upper deck was too crowded, making it difficult to take photos without people getting in the way. The problem solved itself though an hour or so in, when nearly everyone disappeared to the air conditioned levels as the day grew hotter.

Right before lunch, we passed the bend which is supposed to be featured on the 20 yuan note. It was difficult to see the resemblance. The picture could've been from any point of our 67 kilometer journey. We're looking at it from the wrong angle, was the general consensus. Lunch was a pitiful set meal that made me glad I had the foresight to order Li Jiang Catfish. "Eat more, eat more," chirrup the two sweet grandmas I was sharing a table with, and kept ladling rice into my bowl. I easily consumed more than both of them combined.

Four and a half hours after departure, we arrived at Yangshou. In the parking lot, I located bus number 08963, reuniting me with the people I had began the tour with. We continued on to see some of the tourist traps that have sprung up around the area. A stop at some temple, with two monkeys dressed up like a hero from the chinese fairy tale Xiyouji at the exit. 40 minutes at a 1400 year old banyan tree, where there were two more costumed monkeys. A few moments to take a picture of Moon Hill Peak, and then a few more to explore the caves of Assembling Dragon Park. At the end of all the sights, everyone was exhausted, and eager to return to their hotels.

It seems everything in China is given a colorful name. On the water, we passed places like 'Nine Horse Cliff', 'Camel Crossing the River', and 'Five Finger Hill'. Monikers like 'Palace of the Dragon King' and 'Lion Seeing Off Guests' have been affixed to cave formations. It's only fitting, then, that my jug have a handle of its own. On the bus ride back to Guilin, I brainstormed possibilities, but couldn't come up with anything good. Until I decided to simplify things. Literally.

Rather than come up with some five word phrase that would be a pain to type, I wanted something short and easy. In mandarin, a thermos like mine is referred to as a hu lu. Hu lu, hu lu... why not just drop the hu... and bingo! Introducing, Lou!

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!