« Aching in Chengdu | Main | Classes »
September 21, 2005
Sichuan cuisine
(Day 203) Sichuan, or Szechuan if you're looking at a Chinese takeout menu, is known to have some of the best eats in the country. There's even a saying that goes: China is the place for food, but Sichuan is the place for flavor. I haven't had any Western food in about three weeks. McDonald's and KFC looked really tempting. But to eat there when I have the opportunity for authentic Sichuan cuisine? It would've been a waste...
I wasn't planning on making this a food entry. I did want to introduce some of Chengdu's tourist attractions, if there were any worth mentioning. Like the huge Mao statue overlooking Tianfu Square. And the panda conservatory, had I managed to wake up in time for the shuttle provided by the hostel. Like yesterday though, I didn't find very much. I don't see why so many people flock here, other than perhaps using it as a launch pad for other destinations in the area.
While wandering around city center, I saw a lot of people at tables with skewers dipped in a bowl of what looked like sesame oil. A hotpot of all sorts of things: Mushrooms, seafood, animal innards, chicken feet, etc. The only thing it seemed to lack were actual chunks of meat. I saw down anyways, figuring I'd steer away from the more offensive stuff. Tipped off by my taking pictures and eating right off the stick, the shopkeeper instantly recognized me as a tourist.
"[Where are you from?]"
"[Uh... America.]"
"[Here on vacation?]"
"[Yeah.]"
She smiled and showed me the right way to eat: Sliding the food off the skewer onto a provided dish, mixing it with crushed chilli, and feeding it into my mouth the proper way with chopsticks.
The potpourri lived up to Sichuan reputation for being spicy. It wasn't a 'Get the fire extinguisher' type hot. More of a mouth numbing slow burn. Cost was determined by amount eaten. At .5 yuan a stick, I ran up a bill of 12 yuan. I could've eaten more, but at some point, I stopped tasting anything. And I didn't want any problems with my digestive system later.
A path along the Brocade River provided a break from dodging bicycles. I came to the Wuhou Temple, dedicated to Liu Bei, Zhang Fei, Guan Yu, and Zhuge Liang, historical figures immortalized by the Chinese classic Romance of the Three Kingdoms. Admission was a steep 60 yuan. Walking around the perimeters, I decided it wasn't worth it. For that money, I could get an hour of massage and still have something left over for dinner.
There are so many places to eat in Chengdu, and I don't think I could've gone wrong with any of them. I decided on Chen's Mapo Tofu, an institution so famous it earned a label on a local city map I picked up. Located on the other side of town, getting there was a trek and a half. Their signature dish, as their name implies, is mapo tofu. As an afterthought, I also ordered some twice cooked pork to round out the meal.
The plate of napkins brought to my table served as warning. Talk about flavor you can see. Strangely enough, the place didn't have any bottles of water available. Maybe there were all sold out? I had to rely on cans of Pepsi to douse fires in my mouth. I don't feel bad admitting I couldn't handle it like a local. They've probably spent their entire lives eating this stuff. I wouldn't be surprised to find out they dipped their fries in hot sauce.
At the end of the day, I'm not quite sure what to make of Sichuan cuisine. I've only sampled a small selection of the menu, but if they're all going to be this spicy, I think I might pass on the rest. I prefer to eat food I can taste.
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at September 21, 2005 01:14 PM
Comments
ok, one more. now it's time for bed.
Posted by: markyiin at September 21, 2005 01:22 PM
how much was your hostel stay in chengdu?
Posted by: mattloaf1 at September 21, 2005 04:40 PM
Hi Mark,
I have enjoyed sharing your travel experiences with you. It's very generous of you to think of documenting your journey this way to share with the public. You express yourself so well that whoever reads your documentary will see the world through your eyes. The pictures are awesome. They look so real.
I wish you God's luck and protection as you pursue your dreams.
Posted by: Christiana at September 22, 2005 03:02 PM
You keep making me hungry, but my wallet makes me sad. :-(
Posted by: Siuwah at September 23, 2005 10:25 PM
Man, I don't know how you can take this spicy food!! I can't stand that at all =P You've got to start ordering stuff that's less spicy so you can actually enjoy it without having that burning sensation in your mouth after every meal ;)
I love the pictures and seeing where you've been. You've been doing a lot of trekking around - 9 hour hikes and such! That's crazy!! You're so lucky to be seeing all this stuff... I'm jealous!!!!
Posted by: tree at September 23, 2005 11:24 PM
Kinda late to mention it now, but you should have tried: 1) fatty pork belly with mince garlic and spicy, 2) "water-boiled-fish" and "water-boiled-beef" (but dont let the names fool you, they are spicy too.)
and if you happen to be there in the colder days, def. try their spicy hotpot. that's awesome.
Posted by: Tommy at October 25, 2005 02:05 PM