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October 12, 2005

Hutongs

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(Day 234) "[What does this word mean?]" asked a guy working at the hostel. I tried my best to explain what referendum meant. I didn't know the literal translation - that type of word isn't something I would've covered in my chinese studies - but I think I got the idea across. He then asked for translations for minority and rescinds; Eventually, he got the gist of the newspaper headline, something about Iraq rescinding a referendum due to minority opposition.

"[What does this word mean?]" asked a guy working at the hostel. I tried my best to explain what referendum meant. I didn't know the literal translation - that type of word isn't something I would've covered in my chinese studies - but I think I got the idea across. He then asked for translations for minority and rescinds; Eventually, he got the gist of the newspaper headline, something about Iraq rescinding a referendum due to minority opposition.

I really had nothing better to do. Having seen all that I wanted to see in Beijing, I sort of lounged around, waiting for time to pass until our overnight train out west. Jon had gone out earlier on a hutong tour - I hadn't rolled out of bed til well after he had left. I ate a late breakfast at a steamed bun shop nearby, watching people traffic as they went about their daily lives. Days like this are incredibly relaxing. They can be boring to report about, but as one of my favorite activities is people watching, to me, it's a day well spent.

I did rent a bike and go out for a spin, wandering around hutongs as Jon was probably doing, sans tour guide. His program probably included visits to traditional courtyards, a bit of the city's history, but I was content to wander about on my own, looking, observing, and escaping the bustle of metropolitan Beijing. Places like the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, and Temple of Heaven are all UNESCO World Heritage sights, and deservedly so, but these narrow alleys, full of character and atmosphere, have just as much heritage in them.

Hutongs generally run east-west, with main gates facing south, satisfying geomancy, or feng shui, requirements. Residences looked basic, and the abundance of public toilets and bathing facilities hinted at a possible lack of basic plumbing and hot water. Kids played in the streets, while huge gourds hung from vines overhead. Every once in a while, I ran into a plaque indicating a historic home where someone of importance used to live, except not being too familiar with Chinese history, I didn't recognize them. These homes probably enjoy some degree of protection from a city that's eager to modernize. Sadly, the days of the rest may be numbered.

I returned to the hostel some time in the early afternoon. Jon's tour had concluded by then, but we had agreed to meet in the evening, and he was off exploring more sights I had already seen, like the Yonghe Lamasery. Cherry sat around with nothing to do at the tour booking desk, and she shared her pomegranate while we made small talk.

"[Your friend is an interesting guy,]" she said, referring to Jon. "[Likes to talk a lot.]"

"[Can you understand him?]"

"[Sometimes, not always. He's older than he looks!]" She had guessed his age to be 30, and was about a decade off. We played the age guessing game too, where I committed the faux pas of overestimating a girl's age, but she didn't seem to mind.

Her shift ended an hour before Jon and I were scheduled to meet up, so I went out again to modern Beijing to look for some writing supplies (I can never seem to hang onto a pen for more than two weeks). After our rendezvous, it was off to dinner, for a good meal before we got onto the train.

"Food pictures are a big hit," Jon told me as plates of chicken, string beans, and eggplant were brought to the table. "Not everyone is interested in history and all that, but food is one thing that everyone can relate to." Well, if that's the case, here's a picture of dinner, because after all, the blog is about entertainment, right?


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at October 12, 2005 08:26 AM

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