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October 27, 2005
More Great Wall
(Day 250) Like I've said, the Great Wall fascinates me. I think it'd be really cool one day if I came back and visited every single section still standing. I could then buy one of those t-shirts and modify it so it read "I climbed the entire Great Wall." And then I'd really be a chick magnet.
But that's a project for another day (or life). The best I could do this time around would be to hike and add to my resume the Jinshanling to Simatai portion. This section is hyped as unspoilt and unrestored. A more authentic experience, without the carnival mood. Because the Wall extended thousands of kilometers and was built over the course of several dynasties, every segment was different, depending on what raw materials were available in the region, and who oversaw the efforts. The ramparts here were of the Ming era and, constructed of stone, have withstood the elements better than others.
It was a 3.5 hour ride there; Including the return trip, I'd spend more time on the bus than on the Wall itself. We arrived at exactly 11:00am. Instantly, our group of 19 swelled in size as hawkers latched onto us. No souvenir stands though, which was a positive sign. Patiently (I realize they're poor folk just trying to make a couple yuan), I declined the photobooks. I have no use for one, and it'd just eat up precious luggage space. We were followed as far as the first tower, then left to their business partners placed at strategic intervals. "Cold water? Coke? Beer?" they'd push to hikers with parched throats.
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The bus would be waiting for us at 3:00pm at the other end, giving us plenty of time for the trek. Everyone moved at their own pace. Before long, we were dispersed, and it was a peaceful commune with history and nature. Some ascents required quite a bit of effort. At the top of each tower, I'd pause to look around. And catch my breath.
"We don't have dikes this high," I heard a couple mutter.
Xander and Mariela were from Holland, in China on a three week vacation. "I'll bet you used up most of your days off for this, huh?" I commented.
"Well actually, no. In Holland, most of us get 37 days off a year," said Xander.
37 days?!
"At my company, you're required to take a three week leave," added Mariela.
If I recall correctly, two weeks is what most of us get. "But then again, we get sick days too," I pointed out.
"Oh, so do we. And to call in sick doesn't count against our 37 days."
Bastards...
Talking about other subjects wasn't as infuriating, thankfully, and conversation took my mind off the burn in my thighs. I estimate we must've gone through at least 25 towers, some in better shape than others. Rubble was piled everywhere; I could've stuffed a slab of the Great Wall in my backpack and taken it home for a souvenir. (Though a photobook would've been more practical.) We took plenty of breaks, not just to rest, but to gaze back at what we covered.
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"Cold water? Coke? Beer?" recited two elderly women. "T-shirt?" Not yet, I told myself. I'm sure there's many more sections to visit before I feel I've earned mine. I bought a set of postcards instead.
Closer to Simatai, we had to get off and walk along the rubble, as it was too ruined to traverse. A hangbridge followed by an excruciatingly painful incline marked the end of the trail, and I glided down to the parking lot. "Ready for a beer?" suggested Xander.
"Sure, why not." Because, you know, a beer gut is attractive too!
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at October 27, 2005 08:03 AM
Comments
blog is still in china, but i'm actually in mongolia on a stopover. direct train to moscow tomorrow... 5 day ride. i hope i get some decent compartment mates
Posted by: markyiin at October 27, 2005 08:27 AM
enjoy russia!
europeans get large amounts of vacation an sick time...we get crap
Posted by: matt at October 27, 2005 01:17 PM
I'm with you - the Wall is awesome! Someday I'm going. You actually went down that cable thing ?!? Yipes.
I get 3 weeks vacation (and 7 sick days) each year. It went from 2 to 3 wks after 2 yrs. I've been here 5+ yrs, and gotta stick it out for another 5 to earn the next increment (4 wks).
You should get one of those t-shirts - we are seeing a lot of that '97' one. ;p
Posted by: Lisa at October 27, 2005 01:46 PM
While visiting to Paris, my sister was able to take a week off w/o just barely chipping her PTO. I think she was allowed ~10weeks (yes I know!) vacation time per year. Her 40hr weeks gave her a bonus versus the 35hr normal week.
Stay warm =)
Posted by: tweekah at October 27, 2005 03:15 PM
Mark, what do you mean by "glided down" towards the end of your entry? You didn't just hang your clothes on the rope and do it Jackie-Chan style right? Please tell me that there is a cable car or something.
And good luck in Russia. Don't get mugged.
Posted by: Tommy at October 27, 2005 04:16 PM
Wow, great shots! Reminds me of the unreconstructed section of the Wall that was closed to the public (we sneaked in anyway, but don't tell anybody).
Posted by: Jon at October 28, 2005 08:24 AM
dont say youre american in russia, or try not to.
everything is expensive!!
Posted by: eric at October 28, 2005 10:36 AM