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October 01, 2005

Suzhou's Gardens

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(Day 223) Located only an hour away by train, Suzhou makes for an interesting day trip from Shanghai. Canals flowing through the city has earned it a somewhat ambitious name of 'Venice of the East', and for centuries it has been known for producing high quality silk, some of the finest in China. What earned it its UNESCO World Heritage listing though are its gardens, many of which have been restored and opened to the public. After brainstorming possible activities in Shanghai proper came up empty, I decided to head out and give this 2500 year old city a look.

Given that Suzhou's sights can be several kilometers apart, it might've made sense to go on a tour, except I'm not a fan of regimented schedules. Exploring by foot is impractical; I ended up renting a bike from a shop near the train station. This still meant I wouldn't be able to move fast enough to see everything. That would be a reality I was prepared to live with. As it turned out, it didn't really matter. I'd be all garden'ed out before the day was done anyways.

The Master of Nets Garden, aka the Fisherman's Retreat, was laid out in the 12th century and restored only in the last couple decades. Rocks and water are the key elements of these gardens, with few flowers and no fountains. Originally a person's home, sections intended as living quarters are clearly recognizable. One court in the back had the famous "Peony Cottage", which served as the prototype for the "Ming Hall" at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. It was a pleasant stroll through the grounds, though I had to keep a close eye on my watch to prevent from being caught in spending too much time here.

A couple kilometers away was the Lion Forest Garden. People ducked through tunnels and walkways, as intricate rock mazes were the highlight of this retreat. A variety of halls, pavilions, terraces, and towers surrounded the central lake. Supposedly, the garden's name comes from the curiously shaped rocks that are supposed to resemble lions in a garden. I'm a bit lacking in the imagination department and couldn't quite pick out the forms. Which ones are supposed to be the lions again?

For a change of pace, I cycled out to Tiger Hill, an artificial mound which also serves as the final resting place of He Lu, founder of Suzhou. As legend tells it, three days after he was burined, a white tiger came to the grave and sat down next to it, as if guarding it. At the summit was the Yunyansi Pagoda, a 47.7m high structure built in the 10th century by local people. 400 years ago it began tilting, achieving a lean of about 3.59 degrees to the northeast. So I guess that makes Suzhou's version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa?

The Lingering Garden was nearby, but I didn't have the urge to see another. Yuyuan Garden, Master of Nets Garden, and Lion Forest Garden were pretty much the same, and though they were nice, it's kind of like the temples of Thailand. Once you've seen one, you've seen them all.


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at October 1, 2005 06:12 AM

Comments

I was there! I was there!! Omg, i haven't been there in 3 years!

Posted by: Helen Tran at October 1, 2005 11:34 PM

Pretty pictures!

Posted by: Anna at October 2, 2005 11:59 PM