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November 13, 2005
Baltic Avenue
(Day 267) Mention the Baltics, and some might conjure up images of the metaphorical Iron Curtain, of a war torn region bandied about by foreign powers. Personally, I think of Baltic Avenue... you know, the piece of property three spaces from 'GO' in that Monopoly board game. Combined with Mediterranean Avenue, it's always been one of my favorite monopolies to achieve, because if I recall correctly, it merely costs $500 in Monopoly dollars to put up little red hotels on them.
"Leaving today?" asked Hara as I packed my bags.
"Yeah." We both agreed. Tallinn, and Estonia in general, is a great place, but there's no reason to stay for very long. Particularly outside of peak season, when it's not worth making the effort to go to the seaside resorts.
I didn't decide to skip the Scandanavian peninsulas until this morning, travelling through the Baltic states instead. Immediately south of Estonia is Latvia, easily reached via bus. As usual, I had waited til the last possible moment, so as to have maximum flexibility in case I changed my mind. I arrived at the bus station hoping the last run hadn't left yet, and that there'd still be seats available. And of course, there were.
"12:00 o'clock, platform one," said the woman. That left me with a little over an hour to waste. Not a big deal, I've twiddled my thumbs for longer than that before. Similarly, the four hour ride wasn't that bad either |(map). Compared to other train journeys, including the 96 hour monster from Ulaan Baatar to Moscow, this was peanuts. I'd sleep for the majority of it; My cold had gotten worse instead of better, and only while dozing was I able to keep from hacking my lungs out. I'd wake up was for the fifteen minute border crossing when immigration officials came aboard and that was about it. All three Baltic states have joined the European Union and the process was painless. Most people just had to flash their EU card, and those of us that didn't have them quickly had our passports stamped.
I noticed I received an arrival stamp for Latvia, but no departure stamp from Estonia. I wonder if that's how most European countries work? Once in Latvia, our bus stuck close to the Gulf of Riga shores. Every once in a while, the dense pine trees might thin out and I'd catch a glimpse of the beach. It was a incident-free (translate: boring) trip, pretty much what I expected of European travel. The seats were comfortable, the driver was rational. I dare say I missed the honking of all those taxis in the east.
It was only 5:00pm when I reached Latvia's capital, Riga, but already pitch black outside. At the bus station, I exchanged my Estonian play money for Latvian play money. At the exchange rate of US$1 = 0.6 lats though, this was currency that I really had to be careful about; The 50 santimi (1 Lat = 100 santimi) coins were designed to be lost and each of them were worth almost a dollar. Finding a hostel turned out to be rather easy, being located just across the street from the bus station. In the end, it was a fairly dull day. Nothing as exciting as say, putting hotels on the Park Place and Boardwalk.
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at November 13, 2005 01:40 PM
Comments
jack: i'm gonna try to go through eastern europe. basically, i'll try to avoid countries that use the euro.
matt: well, say a pass costs like US$500, thats $15 a day there, a hostel stay will run $15-20 a night for a dorm bed. sample prices for excursions are $60 for a glacier walk, $80 for a kayaking trip, $40 for a cruise around the bay of islands. add on $5-10 a day for eating, it'll be really hard to get by on 50 a day. you can do it, i've met people who have, but they sort of wait 3-4 days in between each activity. costs per day decreases, but in total, they're spending just as much. i didnt believe it at first either, but the rule of thumb for budgeting is to set a figure, then raise it, then raise it again.
as for the bus passes, i havent done them, i've heard good things and bad things too, a lot of it depends on what kind of crowd you get stuck with. but when you arrive in a hub like auckland and christchurch, the message boards will be filled with people looking for travel partners to share rides with. advantage of a car is being able to be spontaneous, stopping on the side of the road whenever for pictures, the thrill if driving through a flock of sheep!! cant do that on a bus!
Posted by: markyiin at November 13, 2005 01:43 PM
travel map pls? =)
Posted by: Anna at November 14, 2005 01:24 AM
map added!
Posted by: markyiin at November 14, 2005 04:19 AM
What you need is a good dose of Deer's tonic! Fix you right up.
Thanks for the map!
Posted by: Lisa at November 14, 2005 12:51 PM