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November 27, 2005

Queen of the Danube

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(Day 281) Budapest is a fusion of two cities separated by the Danube - Buda on the river's west banks and the larger Pest to the east. Like many formerly Soviet influenced capitals, capitalism and commerce have spread like wildfire, yet the city manages to retain much of its culture and history. Studded with World Heritage, it's often dubbed 'Queen of the Danube'.

My day essentially began as I crossed the Chain Bridge to Buda. From the Pest side, that seemed like the place to be. The Royal Castle perched atop Castle Hill is an eye opener, as is the neo-Gothic Matthias Cathedral. A series of steps led to the top, where splendid views are all part of the attraction. While enjoying the vistas, I'd meet my lastest travel companion.

Masaki was a Japanese-Canadian also doing an independent tour of Europe. The two of us hooked up for the day, giving me someone to voice my random thoughts to.

"Check out this curious looking car." "I didn't know they used pennies in Hungary."

And actually, they don't. Hungary's unit of currency remains the Forint (Ft) despite its 2004 accession into the European Union. The euro won't be adopted for several more years, but that doesn't mean it doesn't make appearances every now and then.

"100 euros!" I heard a man say on Fisherman's Bastion. I looked over, wondering what could possibly cost so much. A couple guys were placing bets and playing the 'which cap is the ball' under game.

"Did those guys just bet 100 euros?!" I exclaimed. We watched as they won a few, then lost a few. Over time, they appeared to come out even.

From our angle, it was suspiciosly obvious which cap the ball was under. The whole setup screamed scam, but that didn't prevent a German guy from getting sucked into it. He put down 50 euros, thinking he was going to win some easy money.

"Sorry! Not this one!" he was shown. A pained expression crept over his face as he realized he had been taken. Later I saw the three scam artists splitting their 'winnings' around the corner. I can't believe people still fall for this crap.

Pest looked really impressive from across the river too. I wonder if Magyars (Hungarians) have some saying that goes "The city is always prettier on the other side." While backtracking, we passed a bride and groom taking wedding photos.

"Thai or Vietnamese?" guessed Masaki.

"Vietnamese." I was fairly confident they weren't speaking Thai. We got to know the best man, who corroborated my conjecture. It was a perfect day out, with not a single cloud in the sky. The newlyweds should end up with a great album.

The cathedral bells had struck noon long ago, so back in Pest, we stopped by Central European University's cafeteria for lunch. Masaki had a friend who attended school here, and as an english speaking institution, we fit right in. The food wasn't remarkable, but it was cheap and served in hungry man portions. 700Ft (US$1 = 200Ft) bought enough to push my stomach to the limits.

St. Stephen's Basilica, Budapest's largest religious building, was just down the street. A ticket booth deterred us from going inside, though I'd later learn admission only applied to those wanting to climb the dome.

"Now what?" I asked after we had circled the structure. I hadn't had time to study the city guide brochures picked up from the information center, and wasn't quite sure what else there was to see or what direction they'd be in. We ended up walking up and down tourist avenue several times before deciding to call it a day. Nowadays, with temperatures being what they are, four hours outside is about all I can handle. Then I need to get indoors next to a heater.

That evening, I ventured out again to take in the night scene. All of Budapest's highlights are illuminated after dark, and I literally retraced my steps to see everything in a new light. The Chain Bridge, the Royal Castle, Matthias Cathedral... This is one queen whose reign may never end.


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at November 27, 2005 04:12 AM

Comments

Oops. I think this is the only time I've read your posts out of order (I was so excited about the baths!). I calculate, then, that 2200Ft = $11. In Turkey I think I paid about $20 for "the works" including a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice afterwards. But I didn't stay 4 hours.

When were the Royal Castle and Matthias Cathedral built?

Posted by: Lisa at November 27, 2005 03:18 PM

More questions: who is the woman on the horse? And is that part of the Bastion? Where/what is the place in pic 21 (with the big bird)?

Those old buildings are beautiful!

Posted by: Lisa at November 28, 2005 01:37 PM

Wow, I never thought Budapest was so picturesque... no wonder there's WH sites all over.

Posted by: Ray at November 29, 2005 11:41 AM