« The Trans-Mongolian Mall | Main | A run-in with the (corrupt) police »

November 03, 2005

The Europe-Asia Border

IMGP2270pic.JPG

(Day 258) The Trans-Mongolian Mall didn't operate at Tiumen. The police on the platform didn't allow it. Nor did they allow photos. (Look at Eduardo's face when he saw me taking one anyways.) I wonder if it's because of a military presence nearby. (I have pictures of the tanks too, but maybe I shouldn't post them while in Russia...) Whatever the reason, it was probably like this every week. Unlike yesterday, only a handful of people were loitering around the station.

That's not to say all business came to a halt. While rolling, some of the Russians on board walked up and down the carriages, picking things up at what the considered bargain prices. A couple times, my cabin mates would hold up a pair of gloves and look at me as if to say, "Do you want to buy?" I'd smile and shake my head. I'm not a believer in buying stuff I won't use (and can't get a kick out of) just because it's cheap. And I already had a pair. Purchased in Beijing from a street peddler, I was sure it didn't have a 'retail' markup.

For most of the morning - again, morning by my watch - I sat in Eduardo(left) and Alexandr's(right) room. All the Mongolians in the carriage seemed to know each other, and at any given moment, there could be 6-8 people in my room. Eduardo and I agreed: It's a cultural difference. They weren't bad people, in fact, they sometimes shared their food with me, but having all those bodies and inventory in a small space wasn't exactly pleasant. Alexandr and his wife were extremely friendly. They shared their cookies and insisted on making coffee and tea for everyone. Communicating wasn't easy; It involved a lot of flipping through the Chilean's Russian-Spanish pocket dictionary followed by translation to english, but it was all laughs as we massacred each other's language.

Ekaterinburg's police were more lax. The mall was allowed to open, though we were still told no photography. We got our pictures anyways, because as Eduardo pointed out, they couldn't really do anything once the train started rolling again. Ekaterinburg also happened to be Alexandr's stop. Once their bunks were free, I moved my things over. For a day, it was interesting to be in the thick of things, but for reasons mentioned above, I was ready for a change.

30km later, 1777km away from Moscow according to the distance markers, we crossed into Europe. The moment whizzed by. I barely got a picture of the obelisk marking the spot. Is it a milestone that deserves more attention? Probably. It's been seven months since I last crossed a continental border. However I didn't feel any different. And certainly nothing on the train changed. Sellers were still hawking goods at Perm, buyers were still gobbling themup. In a couple new twists, I noticed the provodnitsas themselves were joining the action, and we also saw a fight break out in the mob, but all in all, it was more of the same ol', same ol'.

As Maureen held her video camera out to record the melee, we heard a man jokingly shout, "Buy your camera!" The three of us looked at each other and grinned. Eduardo verbalized what all of us were thinking.

"Next time, we should bring some of our own clothes to sell. Then maybe we can earn back the cost of our train tickets!"


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at November 3, 2005 08:40 AM

Comments

going to st. petersburg tonight. fyi, i'm only about a day behind on the blog. i've got an interesting story about a near run-in i had in moscow coming up next.

stephen: i did the train nonstop. no stopovers. would've liked to have done at least one, but it woulda cost a lot :(

igor: love moscow. awesome place. most interesting city i've visited so far.

lisa: if you can find (and email me) a decent world map, i'd be happy to trace my whole trip!

ditch: the mom dog came in too, but we didnt pay her as much attention :P i didnt get a chance to take any pictures of the stylish chicks, the opportunity didnt present itself. here in russia though... ;)

scott: appreciate the comment! good to get feedback and now i'm not talking to a wall :)

jon: except i'd have to learn russian numbers for it to work.

Posted by: markyiin at November 3, 2005 08:54 AM

gotta love russia, some people are broke as a joke but look damn good.

you will definitely have a lot of girls to take pictures of over there :) they are the best.

Posted by: igor at November 3, 2005 10:12 AM

Snow reminds me of pittsburgh suburbs.

I'll trade you hurricane for some snow!

Posted by: Jack at November 3, 2005 07:20 PM

I read that your train route crosses time zones about 10 times. That would be confusing.

I also read that the border obelisk is a popular place for local newlyweds to hang out ... probably when it’s not snowing.

Define "decent" and I'll see what I can do :)

Posted by: Lisa at November 3, 2005 07:33 PM

Looking at your pictures....ever wonder wabout all the people immortalized in your blog? All the random photos of crowds...all those people we have seen. They are all forever in your trip. The life they lead. They will never even know that they are in your pictures..that we look at them and say hmmm

makes you think...whose photos are we in?

Posted by: matt at November 4, 2005 08:35 AM

St. Petersburg... damn.
Waiting for pics of Russia.

And do let us know when you do get a chance to post pics of the tanks and military equipments.

Posted by: Tommy at November 4, 2005 11:12 AM

russia mafia, also the best :)

Posted by: igor at November 4, 2005 12:32 PM