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November 11, 2005
The recipe for charm
(Day 265) What goes through my mind when I'm lost. When I've just arrived in an unfamiliar city, so early that it's still pitch black outside? Not panic, because we all know crying doesn't solve anything. Nor frustration. I've been in this situation enough times to get worked up over it. No, my thoughts are rather bland actually. Something to the effect of: Here we go again, Mark. Get out your map and hope you read it correctly this time.
First things first though, and I located an ATM to withdraw some local currency. I wasn't clear on the exchange rate, but 1000 kroons should be enough to get me through a couple days. Next, I tried to figure out where I was. I knew about seven hours west of St Petersburg, in Tallinn, capital of Estonia. More specifically, I was at the city's autobussijaam, or bus station. Flipping through my guidebook, I found a paragraph that suggested to get to the Old Town, walk a block, cross the street, and catch the tram. Figuring out a block in which direction was an exercise left to the reader I suppose. Well, when in doubt, do as the locals do, and a group of them led me to the tram stop. Within a couple minutes, tram #4 rolled by, and I got on looking for someone to pay fare to. No one was collecting, and so for at least one ride, Tallinn's public transportation was free.
I got off at the fourth stop, again, at my guidebook's advice. Now what? Fortunately, someone noticed my confused look and offered to help.
"Hello, do you speak english? You looked a bit lost there on the tram."
That's right, I had read that most Estonians were proficient in english. "Yeah, actually, I am. Can you tell me where we are?"
"This is the entrance to Old Town. Keep going down this road about 100m and you'll be at the town hall."
Right. If I could find the town hall, I could handle it from there. I thanked the man, and following his instructions, arrived at the tall gothic spire. Built in the 14th century, it's probably been serving as a guiding beacon to many weary travellers before me. The hostel I was looking for was just around the corner. Overlooking the fact that a strip club occupied the same building, Vana Tom turned out to be a great place to stay. The rooms were spotless, breakfast was included, the lady at reception looked like she could've worked upstairs. Feeling drained - I think I caught a cold in St Petersburg - I immediately crawled into bed and dozed off. Once asleep, I didn't stir again til noon. I probably could've snoozed until evening too. But then I'd be up all night, and probably be bored into doing something like buying lap dances.
So I went out for walk, and I'm glad I did. Tallinn couldn't have been a more enchanting place. The building architecture, cobbled streets, and laid back atmosphere was enough to impress me, and then you had these haunting spires everywhere you looked. Throw in a Russian orthodox church and some old city walls, you've got the grandma's secret recipe for charm.
Rising high above the other buildings, the steeples might've served as orienting landmarks, if there weren't a one, sometimes two, around every corner. I wasn't sure where I was going - in other words, still lost - but it wasn't necessary to consult a map. Like the city and country it was a part of, the Old Town was small and easily explored in a day. Then again, coming from the vast Russia and her overwhelming metropolises, most places would probably feel small.
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I ducked into a cozy pizzeria for dinner, then wandered about a bit after dark before returning to the hostel. I got to know the other traveller in my room, a Korean girl who has been all over the world herself. I was amazed at the places she's been; She hardly looks like the type to endure the rigors of backpacking. Then again, I should know better. Some of the most hardcore travellers I've met have been solo females. People who've been on the road for over two years, who've been to over 100 different countries, in places you don't normally think of as a backpacker destination. Just wait til I get that many under my belt. Then I'll think even less of being lost at a bus station.
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at November 11, 2005 03:22 AM
Comments
just curious, mark, how long more do you think you will go before you head back to US (more like how much of your initial 20k is left?), and where are you planning to go next?
Posted by: Tommy at November 11, 2005 09:57 AM
photos of korean girl? :)
where are all the people in tallin, seems like ghost-town.
Posted by: igor at November 11, 2005 11:43 AM
hey Mark! The weather as you depart russia reminds you of pittsburgh doesn't it? Tolstoy's book is one i would like to read in my lifetime too. maybe one day when i travel like what you are doing now i'll read it. hope you are not too homesick. We miss you but am glad you are expanding your horizons.take care and stay out of jail.
Posted by: sheenamareena at November 11, 2005 04:17 PM
nothing wrong with lap dances!
Posted by: matt at November 11, 2005 04:36 PM
That's amazing to hear that most of the solo backpackers you've met are female. And here I am, not even close to becoming a backpacker because in all honesty, I don't think I can live by hopping from one hostel to the next. I'd want better accomodations, hence more money spent, hence being broke before even getting to the next destination. LOL I don't know. That's just how I am. Anyway, still not caught up but I'll take what I can get for now until things settle down. I'm doing a lot of catching up with my German and Japanese class, on top of working more to lessen my cc bill. *sigh* It's been madness really, but not the fun kind. But before I go, I gotta second that first question. lol Just curious, of course. Take care. -GEM P.S. - Whatever happened to your Thai sweetheart?
Posted by: GEM at November 12, 2005 06:42 AM
Speaking of woman, I was wondering recently if you ever keep in touch with Deer?
Posted by: matt at November 12, 2005 07:23 AM