M-whY

The day began routinely enough. I found myself on a train with five friendly Romanians, two of which chatted about family and grandchildren, judging by the baby pictures that were passed around. A woman peddled pens, Christmas ornaments, and other trinkets by by leaving a few in each compartment, then returning later to see if there were any takers. In waning daylight, we rolled by Bucegi Mountains and Mt Sinai. Two hours later, we were delivered to Bucharest.

It's a good thing I didn't make eastern Europe my very first travel destination, because had I arrived in a place like Bucharest at night on Day 15 of my trip? I might've just freaked out and flown home. Disoriented and confronted with the chaotic pace of a capital city, I managed to board the right bus... in the wrong direction. My first attempt at the metro wasn't a rousing success either, and I found myself back where I started: At the train station. And what could I do but try again?

I got it right the second time around. The welcoming (and beautiful) Romanian girl at reception checked me in and showed me the hostel's facilities. I asked her where I might get online, and she gave me directions for the nearest cafe. Not yet prohibitively late, I went out to get my internet fix.

I wouldn't call the neighborhood dangerous. I've been in parts of New York City far more sketchy. To me, it just appeared like a quiet residential suburb. It was a fifteen minute trek each way, and on the return portion, I found myself the target of possibly another scam.

A guy walking next me said something. Though obviously directed at me - there was no one else around - I ignored him because I don't understand Romanian. Then he switched to english.

"Stop. Police. Show me your passport."

For a few seconds, my mind spun at 10,000rpms.

"Show me your ID," I responded. He flashed some sort of badge and some sort of ID - I have no idea whether it was real or not. I was just stalling for time.

My thought process in the meantime went something like this: If he was a cop, it was probably in my best interest to cooperate. If not, and he certainly wasn't dressed like one, he was probably after my money, and maybe I should play along rather than to do anything rash.

I showed him my passport without handing it over. He glanced at it, than asked me if I was carrying any weapons or drugs. "We have problems with hashish lately," he explained, and told me to empty my pockets. This sounded awfully fishy, a lot like what happened with my corrupt police run-in in Moscow. But just like that instance, I had nothing valuable on me.

My right pocket contained some keys and a handful of coins, my left had my wallet which held maybe a million lei (US$35). I let him leaf through the notes, keeping my hand nearby in case he tried a snatch and run. By fetching my passport, I had to reveal my money belt, but again, all I had in there was a bunch of souvenir paper notes I had accumulated over the months. (My emergency stash I keep where no one would find it.)

"What is this worth? In US dollars." he asked, holding up a 1000 tugruk Mongolian bill.

"Less than a dollar."

Disinterested, he gave it all back. "Do you have any dollars or euros?"

This question really troubled me. Dollars and euros are the currencies a scammer would try to acquire, yet when I said I didn't have any, he simply nodded and let me go. Maybe the lei I had wasn't worth his efforts? Or was he really an undercover cop trying to bust druggies?

I told the story to the receptionist, who was of the opinion the guy was up to no good. In the end, I guess it doesn't really matter. I emerged from another hairy situation untouched, not a single lei poorer. I just wish these guys would stop targetting me; I have no money and I'm not worth their time.

Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!