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December 18, 2005

Ilhara Valley

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(Day 303) "Are you not getting up or are you just procrastinating?"

"Just procrastinating," I answered from under the covers. "Go ahead, I'll meet you guys at breakfast."

I only need as long as it takes to brush my teeth and pull on my jeans to be ready anyways. I had plenty of time for an omelet before the shuttle bus arrived. We went around picking up what must've been every single tourist in town. The 19 of us constituted a full bus, and the Ilhara Valley tour began.

Just outside of town, we paused for a lookout over Goreme and Pigeon Valley. Koreans made up two-thirds of our group, and the stereotypes that they (and Japanese) are shutterbugs certainly held true. Striking all sorts of crazy poses, they snapped away with their fancy cameras and camera phones.

I take a lot of pictures myself - 7000 to date, about 2700 of which have made the blog - but today just wasn't good photography weather. Dust storms kicked up as we were driven to one of Cappadocia's subterranean cities. Chiefly the result of climate extremes and threats from invaders - the air shaft was disguised to appear as wells from above - they date anywhere from 2000 to 3000 years old. Derinkuyu is one the largest of the estimated 3000 in the area; It delved eight levels deep and is a twisting maze of tunnels and rooms.

"They obviously didn't make them for tall people," noted a Dutchman named Steve.

A room excavated in the shape of a cross occupied the lowest level; Christian refugees often used them to escape persecution from Romans. Inhabitants could live underground for months at a time: They had a place for cooking, niches for oil lamps, and most importantly, a source of water in the form of a well. Water troughs for livestock were scattered all over, a missionary school was also part of the facilities. We passed a cluster of compartments for sleeping in. "You look like you're dead in that picture," said Meri. Speaking of the dead, there was even a room to store bodies in until they could be taken out and buried.

A couple girls wearing blue smocks from the nearby village showed up while the photo fest continued at Ilhara Valley. A glacier cut canyon several hundred meters deep, the highlight of the tour is supposed to be the walk through it, but inclement weather forced a change of plans. It was only a drizzle at the top, but the heavier clouds that blew in threatened downpour.

Lunch was included; Allie and I opted for the chicken metal plate and Meri had the fish. The full course meal included soup, salad, and bread. "I love Turkish bread," exclaimed Allie, and I had to agree. I don't know how to describe it... I mean, it's just normal bread. No special flavors nor spices, but the fact that we consumed three basketfuls just goes to how good it is.

The landscape at Yaprakhisar was supposedly used as a backdrop for the original Star Wars movie. Selime Rock Monastery was far more interesting in my opinion. "Wow," I thought as we scrambled around the abandoned cave rooms. I've seen many natural wonders, many impressive manmade structures, but this was a intriguing mix of the two. I could only imagine what life was like here hundreds of years ago.

Most of these sights were many kilometers apart, so taking a tour to see them made more sense than trying to do it myself. Still, like I've said many times before, cooperative weather is a necessary component of an ideal trip. Steve agreed. "It was good, but knowing it could've been better kind of takes away from the experience." The rain was coming down fairly steadily by the time we reached Pasabag's fairy chimneys, and I almost didn't bother getting out of the van.

"Look at that rainbow!" someone said. The brightest prism arch I've ever seen magically appeared as the precipitation tapered off. It faded away as quickly as it came, but not before I caught it digitally. So yeah, while none of today's pictures will make my list of favorites, I did come away with something special for the collection.


Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!

Posted by markyiin at December 18, 2005 09:08 AM

Comments

my floppy drive sounds like it's about to die... i hope it can hold out for just a few more weeks...

Posted by: markyiin at December 18, 2005 09:34 AM

the rocks in the last picture...well look like a male body part

Posted by: matt at December 18, 2005 10:51 AM

Truly spectacular last picture! You really have coptured some of the best travel pictures of anyone I know.

Posted by: Jon at December 19, 2005 09:04 AM

mark, simon and i wanna ball with you not because we can beat you when you are rusty - that we can do any given day. but we have been searching for players who can remotely match our level of play and the fact that you will be coming back makes you one of the shortlist of players.

anyway, give us a holla when you are back, and we will show you the meaning of "getting out of my house", "you reach, i teach" once again.

Posted by: Anonymous at December 19, 2005 02:22 PM