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December 11, 2005
The Grand Bazaar
(Day 298) Markets have followed me wherever I've gone. I haven't been able to shake them, not even in places like Siberia. Some of them only come alive after dark, others may be weekly affairs, but it's safe to say there's always something to spend money on.
My first impressions of Istanbul are that it's just one big shopping mall. Much of the activity centered around the Grand Bazaar, an emporium that lays claim to the title of largest covered market in the world. Through the main entrance, I was blinded by glittering displays of gold jewelry. The maze of passageways and corridors branching off the east-west vaulted street were crammed with ceramics, shoes, and cashmere scarves. Tulip shaped glasses of tea were carried around on swinging brass trays to encourage bargaining sessions. I won't deny that there was a very strong tourist presence - the majority of goods on sale were souvenir items - but it was still worth a peek, if only to count the number of times I heard, "Hello, my friend, how are you? Would you like to buy a carpet?"
Shops that spilled out into the street sold more practical items like clothes, and were frequented more by Istanbulites. Midday prayers sounded from the mosque minarets as I found myself surrounded by men sporting bushy Turkish moustaches and women hooded in headscarves. In time, I found myself at the Egyptian Bazaar, an L-shaped building selling tea, spices, pastrami, and the famous Turkish delights. I bought a box to snack on later, then visited the food section right outside.
"Want to try?" beckoned a man standing in front of his blocks of cheese, and cut me a sample. I had a nibble, then turned away hide the expression on my face. Needless to say, I didn't buy any.
I came up rather empty on my scavenger hunt for bazaar bizarres. Back in the days before the world was so well connected, one might've been able to find goods more exotic. Not to say I didn't find any. The butcher had some stomach turning items, and the belly dancer outfits might've made a nice gag gift, but the number one headturner had to be Turkish viagra. If anyone wants any, maybe I'll bring home a box, but I won't make any comments on the boastful claim they come with, because I didn't try any. The last thing I need is an all night boner.
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at December 11, 2005 11:47 AM
Comments
no comments by you?
Posted by: matt at December 11, 2005 02:15 PM
That first picture is stunning. I bet it would make a great X-Mas card.
You're right about the boastfulness of the claim. That stuff is only good for about four times a night.
I'm glad you're enjoying Istanbul. It's one of my favorites. Make sure you spend some time in the "Islamic" half.
Posted by: Jon at December 12, 2005 08:36 AM
I've finally caught up to your last entry. It's quite an amazing feat to accomplish. Having travelled a fair bit, I'm still envious of the places you have visited.
Have you ever considered writing a book about your trip once it's over?
Posted by: aragingbull at December 12, 2005 10:16 AM
Maybe a good gag gift, but a pricey one. I thought costumes would be cheaper there but nope, so didn't get any - decided it wasn't worthwhile as they use up too much luggage space/weight. And I usually wear more Egyptian style anyway.
J - I had considered some Turkish viagra for you, but left it for the guys who need it!
Posted by: Lisa at December 12, 2005 01:47 PM
Mark, so Istanbul will be your last stop before you go back to NJ?
Honestly, I sensed that your enthusiasm has fallen a bit ever since you have arrived in Russia. (Believe it or not it showed through the lines of your posts.) May be that's a signal that you have been away from home for long.
Posted by: Tommy at December 12, 2005 05:04 PM
leaving istanbul tonight to visit central turkey, i should have some time on the bus to catch up!
ragingbull: one day i'd like to be published, but i havent decided if i want to use this trip as the centerpiece yet.
tommy: really? someone else also pointed out a perceived drop in enthusiasm since russia. turkey may be my last stop, but until i book the flight home, i cant guarantee anything.
Posted by: markyiin at December 13, 2005 09:52 AM
so this trip will be over soon then? are you gonna regroup and head to africa, south america?
Posted by: aragingbull at December 13, 2005 10:38 AM
I spent time in both the Grand and Egyptian Bazaars. I got a lot of "Lady, where you from?" Invariably they thought I was German or British. And then they'd ask if I want a carpet. If you're interested in what they have, whatever price they tell you, offer half. I found it a little nerve-wracking at first but after I got the hang of it, the haggling was great fun. One needs to be prepared to spend some time as the various vendors want to demonstrate their hospitality. Thus I 'earned' a lot of free glasses of tea, some Raki (including an entire bottle to take home), and even a couple of lunches. And I ended up purchasing a few gifts for friends and family (but no carpets!), and a lambskin jacket for me. Have you tried the Raki yet? Woo.
Headed for Ankara?
You are a Bond fan.
Posted by: Lisa at December 13, 2005 12:27 PM
Mark, may be you should consider working for another year as a travel writer or for the publisher of lonely planet (they should be at awe to your opinions), and then you can get them to sponsor you to travel to south america + africa + south asia + western europe + middle east.
Posted by: Tommy at December 13, 2005 03:26 PM
Go somewhere is warm and sunny to skip cold and shovelling snow in NJ this winter. Have another nice bath before you come home. Just kidding. You will sense the best time for you to come home. Home is a better place than anywhere else. Have you accomplished your original goal of this journey?
Posted by: Frank at December 14, 2005 09:23 AM