M-whY

The first courtyard has historically always been open the public. Admission didn't have to be bought until I crossed into the second. Paths radiated from this middle gate, and up in front, a little to the left, stood the Divan Tower. Though I wouldn't climb up, I could imagine the defining views from the top. Instead, I made a beeline for the harem. Shrouded in secrecy to the outside world, the word has acquired some questionable connotations, and quite honestly, I wanted to be able to say, "Yeah, I've been to the harem... you know... the harem."

More admission fees for the requisite guided tour. A small price to pay, I suppose, compared to the past, when only men outside the ruling family allowed inside were black eunuchs. The guide's english was easy to understand, which is not always a given in foreign country. Details seem to vary from guidebook to guidebook, but the general idea is the same. The harem was not a palace of debauchery as some may picture it; The sultan 'only' had sexual relations with a small fraction of them. These 'favorites' were occupied finer rooms than the rest, whose primary purpose was to entertain. Should one of them become pregnant, she got 'promoted' to royal consort. A reward for getting knocked up, if you will.

The sons - should the child turn out to be male - weren't necessarily destined for an enviable life. Til the early 1600's, fratricide was a common Ottoman practice. It was decreed that when a new sultan took the throne, his brothers should be eliminated to allow for peaceful accession. Later on, this was abolished in favor of a system no better. When the reigning sultan passed away, the eldest took power while other princes were imprisoned in rooms known as The Cage. Here, they were treated as pampered prisoners until a time when they were called on to rule. Unfortunately, any person who spent an extended amount of time in The Cage emerged crazy; Ibrihim the Mad spent 22 years in there and his reign was characterized by foolish decrees and sexual excess.

Among the rooms we visited, I don't think any of them were formerly part of the Cage. Most were simply residences for the sultan and his family. The tour only lasted 30 minutes, and it felt like we were hurried along, hardly enough time to pause and admire the intricate tiles covering all surfaces. We exited into the third courtyard, which held several more buildings such as the library and throne room. Entering the treasury room required another ticket, and allowed me to see a number of mind boggling precious gemstones. A Tiffany's sales associate would've been impressed with this collection. The 68 carat Spoonmaker diamond, fifth largest in the world and as the story go, was found in a dumpster and bought by a street peddler for just a few spoons. Exhibit after exhibit of jewel encrusted weapons and thrones. In such quantities that it's hard to believe these stones are considered rare.

Roving guards made it impossible to sneak photos. I don't see the harm in taking pictures of emeralds and rubies, so why they weren't allowed is beyond me. I could understand being respectful to items of religious significance, like the exhibits containing John the Baptist's bones and the Prophet Mohammed's tooth and hair, though. These relics made this courtyard the most interesting; The fourth and last couldn't compare with its 'plain' marble pools and kiosks. On a sunny day, the view out over the Bosphorous, the waterway separating European Turkey and Asian Turkey, would've been nice, but on this occasion, there wasn't much to see.

I returned to my own little cage, a windowless dormitory room, and pampered myself with a scalding hot shower. I find my mood is often affected by the weather, and so on days that I sound less enthusiastic than others, it's because the sun didn't make an appearance. But on the bright side, I did get to see the harem... you know... the harem.

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