February 08, 2006
Unforgettable
(Day 327) February 2005. It all began with a humble domestic flight across the country from Philadelphia to Los Angeles. By the time I returned home in January 2006, I had set foot on five continents and about two dozen countries. A trip of a lifetime, well worth the time and effort, eye-opening, rewarding, and a bunch of other things as well, but most of all, unforgettable.
I flagged down three taxis before finding a driver that understood me.
"Airport? Matar?"
He nodded. "You speak Arabic?"
"No, just one word."
Whether his english was just as poor, or he had to concentrate on the road, there wasn't any more conversation after that. Not even any negotiation for fare; Apparently, you're just supposed to know how much it costs from point A to point B. Confident he knew what he was doing tailgating and cutting other drivers off, I sat back and watched Cairo's disorderly traffic, which, as far as what I've seen, only ranks as second worst.
So where is it worse? And while we're making comparisons, what are some of the other bests and worsts of my travels? Keep in mind that though I went around the world, I'm didn't even come close to seeing all of the world, and this compilation is far from global...
Worst Traffic: A ride through Cairo is an adventure, it's possible to sit in traffic for hours in Bangkok, but Hanoi takes the first award here. Actually, it's mayhem in both of Vietnam's main cities - crossing the street in Ho Chi Minh City can give you gray hairs too - but the onslaught of motorbikes in Hanoi left the most lasting impression. And the honking... Drivers honk when they turn a corner, when they make a U-turn, when they run a red light. When they pass someone, when someone passes them, when they think they might pass, or be passed. It's like war out there!
Best Beach: If New Zealand could solve its sandfly problem, I'm sure the bums would come flocking, but for now, I have to say Perhentian Islands have the best beaches I've seen. Jewel colored waters, beautiful stretches of sand, hammocks hanging from the trees. And being there in low season, I had it all to myself!
Best Food: Picking the best food is like picking a favorite supermodel. There are so many to choose from and they're all so delicious! I'm going to miss kangaroo steaks in Australia, little steamed buns in China, shish kebaps in Turkey, and so many more. Thai food really gets my mouth watering though. It's difficult to say what exactly defines Thai food: You have the curries of the south, the seafood near the shore, the mouth numbing chillis of the north. Plus the staples of pad thai and sticky rice. I'm afraid any Thai restaurant I go to from here on out is going to be a disappointment if they don't provide sticky rice!
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Best UNESCO World Heritage Site: The field is stacked here. Yogyakarta in Indonesia had some fascinating rocks. The Great Wall of China is worth seeing more than once. The Pyramids of Egypt, despite the hassle, is something to behold. Cambodia's Angkor temples edge all of them out, and only by the slightest of margins, because there's just something surreal about seeing ruins overgrown with trees hundreds of years old.
Best Massage: I've noticed so far Southeast Asia has been sweeping the M-whY's. Let's continue the streak. Best massage goes to the blind masseuse from Seeing Hands in Cambodia. My decision could be influenced by the fact I had spent the days leading up clambering over the aforementioned Angkor temples, but if there was something like this near where I live in America, I'd be making daily visits whether I was sore or not!
Best Encounter with Wildlife: Coming across a king cobra in Malaysia was a thrilling moment, but it being only a baby sort of nerfed the encounter. (Then again, a king cobra's poison is supposedly deadly from the day it hatches from its egg...) Coming face to face with a wombat in Tasmania my favorite though, primarily because I got such a great photo out of it. They're like tiny bears and incredibly cute. It's a shame you see so many on the highways as roadkill...
Best Trek: New Zealand reigns king as far as natural beauty goes. Most people rave about South Island and say it's best to spend most of one's time there. But it'd be a shame to skip the North Island and miss out on the Tongariro Crossing. Craters with interesting features, lakes the color of emeralds, and a variety of different landscapes. I'm trying to think of the best word to describe it, but my vocabulary just isn't that good.
Best Activity: I'll be honest. Treks aren't really my cup of tea. I'd rather be taking twisties on a motorbike. Or racing down a bobsled track with the Latvian national team. The latter may have been the most exciting 49.609 seconds of my life!
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Best Journey: Traveling overland takes time. Eight hours in the bed of a pickup truck over Khmer dirt roads. Twelve hours on a bus from Istanbul to Cappadocia. The 96 hour train from Ulaan Baatur (Mongolia) to Moscow makes everything else seem like a walk around the block though. I've dubbed it the Trans Mongolian Mall for all of the buying and selling that took place at the stops in between. I remember towards the end, I was dying to get off, but completing the mother of all train rides is something I can brag about for years to come.
Best (Hottest) Women: Maybe it's no coincidence that Anna Kournikova and Maria Sharapova are considered bombshells on the tennis circuit. Russia produces some very good looking specimens. And they make such a big deal about looking good. I mean, they're wearing skirts while I'm shivering under multiple layers!
Most Overrated: It's a subjective thing, but I found Bali the most disappointing. Kuta Beach was average as far as beaches went, the temple architecture is nothing to rave over, and the Balinese dances I attended were unauthentic performances. If I had to do it all over again, I would've skipped it and gone straight to Yogyakarta.
Best Country: If I had a nickel for each time someone asked me "What's your favorite country you've been to?", I'd have enough to finance another jaunt around the world. It's not an easy question to answer though. Are we talking about best food? Nicest people? Most scenic? I usually end up giving a noncommital answer. Every country is different, but I liked all of them and can't pick a favorite.
And usually that suffices. Most people won't press the subject further. I know it's a lame response though, so after giving some more thought to it, I've come up with a more satisfying answer.
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It's the aim of most travellers to get off the beaten track, to connect with locals. There's something special about being somewhere few foreigners have been. I don't mean to disparage those on vacation packages who have just see the highlights and then move on; In limited time, you can only do so much, and it wouldn't make sense not see the Sydney Opera House when in Sydney. Immersing oneself in culture takes time, and in many places, there's a language barrier to overcome. Because I spent the longest period of time in China and am fluent in mandarin, I think I got the most out of the country. I had some interesting conversations with locals, on board trains, in taxis, and away from the cities. I'd like to share something I jotted down in my notes:
We were riding down a small bike trail in Yangshuo, site of those picturesque limestone peaks. She was a village girl, a year older than myself. I had hired her to be my guide. She wasn't asking much in payment, when I gave her the equivalent of US$6 for her day's work, she acted like it was a fortune. We got along well. Because I speak a bit of chinese, there was no language barrier between us.
Near a village, I sneezed. In some asian cultures, it's a superstition; If you sneeze, it means someone is thinking about you.
"Your mom is is thinking about you," she smiled cheerfully.
"No, can't be. It's night time in America. She's dreaming about me."
"Really? How can that be? How is it that it's day in one part of the world and night in another?"
I nearly fell off my bike. I knew she was uneducated, in our conversation, I learned a bit of her background, but did she not understand the concept that the world was round? And that the earth rotates as it revolves around the sun? I bit my tongue. What could I say? I didn't want to make her feel dumb. And she wasn't necessarily stupid. Simply uneducated. That's all.
It made me realize how people all live on the same planet, but we each live in our own worlds. When I go home, I'll return to the corporate America, sit in my cube, and wonder what car to buy when I save enough money. She'll still be stuck in rural China, guiding tourists when it strikes her mood, subsisting on just a couple dollars a day. Two different worlds: Mine is round, hers is still flat.
Final thoughts: Just take a look at the UNESCO World Heritage list and you can see how much more is out there. I only sampled a tiny bit of what is out there. I don't think it's possible for someone to visit all of them, but if someday I win a US$300 million Powerball lottery, I'll give it my best shot.
If that never happens, I'll still have plenty of stories to tell my kids and grandkids in the future. "C'mon dad, you've told us about the Trans Mongolian Mall like 300 times already," they might say, prompting me begin a new tale about the time I cycled drunk in Australia wine region, or the cyclops I met in Laos, or the Russian police scam I got caught in, or one of the many other unforgettable memories which I'll be able to recall in great detail, because I took the time to blog it all!
Thanks to everyone for their support and comments! Knowing people are reading keeps me motivated to continue the updates!
Posted by markyiin at February 8, 2006 02:14 PM
Comments
If anyone can think of any more "bests" and "worsts" they'd like to hear, I'll be happy to add to this list, but otherwise this is
The End.
Posted by: markyiin at February 8, 2006 03:20 PM
Congrats on finishing your trip! I've been following all along but I've been a little behind.
I still hope to do what you've done one day. Maybe in a more limited fashion.
Posted by: Aves at February 8, 2006 10:55 PM
nooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!
welcome back man, how are you assimilating into crappy america ? :)
Posted by: igor at February 9, 2006 09:17 AM
Congrats man!
Now all of us 9-5ers will have to find another backpacker's blog to visit during the day. sigh...
Posted by: Tommy at February 9, 2006 10:38 AM
Thanks for taking us with you in this journey. It's been very inspiring and exciting reading your blog.
Now, get your game back and play some ball.
Posted by: Simon at February 9, 2006 10:39 AM
Welcome back to the U.S! And thank you for exciting travel tour! I hope the world has got closer to you!
Posted by: Yuto at February 9, 2006 08:16 PM
Amazing journey. Thank you for the inspiration; I've got to start planning, saving, and organizing my time for a vacation like this in a few years.
Posted by: fool at February 10, 2006 10:20 AM
You working anywhere in America right now?
Posted by: Chris at February 10, 2006 12:09 PM
Mark,
The blog has been an incredible treat. It's been fascinating; I'm sorry to see it come to an end, yet glad for the experience to travel vicariously with you. Thanks!! I was thinking the other day of how your blog has really educated a lot of people about different regions of the world - that's really worth something, you know.
See ya soon,
Scott
Posted by: Scott at February 10, 2006 12:34 PM
Very well done! My both thumbs up!!!!!
Best wishes for whatever you will do!
Can I get exclusive right of having your blog translated and published in Chinese?
Posted by: Frank at February 10, 2006 01:01 PM
Amazing journey Mark! so are you working at your old company again?
Posted by: z0mb13 at February 10, 2006 01:40 PM
you still need one more post.... what did you learn? about yourself and about life?
Posted by: matt at February 10, 2006 11:15 PM
Hey Mark. Good ending to a fantastic journey. I can't even imagine the feelings you must have had on the trip. We live in our little pocket of the world without really seeing anything besides what is immediately around us. You on the other hand were able to travel essentially 'world to world'. Must have been a great feeling.
Posted by: Dave at February 12, 2006 08:16 PM
igor: its been two weeks since i've returned. adjusting wasnt hard, i didnt even have any jet lag! its almost like i never left
chris, z0mb13: i'm still unemployed. had to rewrite my resume since it was pretty outdated. figuring out how to include what i did during the past year was harder than i thought it'd be.
frank: my mom wants those rights....
matt: that stuff goes in my book, whenever i get around to writing it :) i'll say one thing though, the more i saw, the more i experienced, the more i realized how little i knew. i think if one comes away from life experiences feeling wiser, then they missed the whole point of it.
Posted by: markyiin at February 13, 2006 10:50 AM
when are you going to do it again? :)
Posted by: igor at February 13, 2006 11:57 AM
Mark, well, I guess that's ok if you dont want to share but I feel the same way- the more travel you do, the less you realize you know about the world.
With 4 months left on my trip, except a few emails from me about some places to stay and eat and any tips for the road.
Are you going to blog on xanga?
Posted by: Matt at February 13, 2006 03:14 PM
Mark -
I made a pretty long comment, but either it got lost or you didn't approve - did you get it at least? :(
Posted by: Ray at February 14, 2006 09:54 AM
Hi Mark,
I came upon your site about a month ago when I was search blogs on Hong Kong and China. I don't know if you will still be reading comments now being posted. I read your HK/China entries and they were excellent. I did not post any comments until now because I was so caught up with all your fascinating detailed records. After reading your HK/China blogs, I went to the beginning and just completed reading your entire entries.
I wish to congratulate you on your exceptional and detailed account of your travels. Let me know if you will be posting any other interesting accounts of your life.
All the best.
Posted by: Henry at February 14, 2006 07:12 PM
so i did some statistics on my this blog... if i put all the writing in a single file, it'd be over 400 pages (in microsoft word) and over 220,000 words long?!
someone also suggested to me that maybe i should try selling my boxers in ebay, noting that they'd be special since they've been worn in like two dozen countries. heh, i wonder if i'd have any bidders.
igor: not anytime soon :)
matt: it's not about not wanting to share, it's more like there's still a lot of digesting to be done. i'm only half joking about the book, in my spare time (and i have lots of it now) i jot down notes and write little blurbs that maybe someday i can stitch into a whole story.
ray: sadly, i didnt get it :( i had to put in some filters to protect my site from spammers that shut me down a couple times, i wondering if you tried putting links in the body of your comment? that would've triggered the filters...
henry: thanks for leaving a message! yes, i'll continually check back every couple days for new comments, should there be any. as far blogging elsewhere, maybe i'll do it, but my life will be nowhere as interesting as it has been.
Posted by: markyiin at February 14, 2006 09:28 PM
I'm a fellow ATOT'er. I remember when you quit to start your trek. Read your post when you got back and just now finished reading about your trip. Congrats and simply amazing! Your blog was so interesting I couldn't stop reading. Glad to hear you made it back to Thailand ;)
Posted by: bwnv at February 16, 2006 01:29 PM